Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Getting my front rotors replaced and rears machined soon ..so I thought I might as well get the master cylinder stopper installed but I'm not sure if this is even necessary for street driving or just racing where you might need to hit the brakes real hard ...?

Saw this one on ebay for $70 anyone used it? how's the quality ? Or should I just get the cusco one for $165 ? or none at all?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-R32-R33-R34...rts_Accessories

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258515-brake-master-cylinder-stopper/
Share on other sites

I have a Cusco one, looks a lot stronger than that ebay one (has an arm that goes behind the strut tower, so 3 bolts in total).

I highly recommend the master cylinder stopper, it removes any vagueness so that any input you give to the brake pedal is used for braking.. not moving the firewall :)

Getting my front rotors replaced and rears machined soon ..so I thought I might as well get the master cylinder stopper installed but I'm not sure if this is even necessary for street driving or just racing where you might need to hit the brakes real hard ...?

Saw this one on ebay for $70 anyone used it? how's the quality ? Or should I just get the cusco one for $165 ? or none at all?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-R32-R33-R34...rts_Accessories

If you are not going on the track don't bother. Only really useful on track with no ABS.

have one on my car, gets rid of the sponginess of the brake pedal. mine use to get all spongy especially holding on the brakes at red lights. firmer/more direct feel of braking. but like a couple have said, not essential

I have an R33 GTST - so perhaps different firewall strength to R34. I noticed a big difference in braking feel and pedal effort by fitting a brake cylinder brace. You won't notice the difference braking gently or in "normal" traffic driving but anything about 50% braking I noticed an obvious difference. Plenty of other people I talk to say the same. I decided to get one when I was bleeding the brakes - my GF was pushing the pedal and my master cylinder moved about 15mm with her pushing the pedal with high effort. That is a lot if you ask me.

I have an R33 GTST - so perhaps different firewall strength to R34. I noticed a big difference in braking feel and pedal effort by fitting a brake cylinder brace. You won't notice the difference braking gently or in "normal" traffic driving but anything about 50% braking I noticed an obvious difference. Plenty of other people I talk to say the same. I decided to get one when I was bleeding the brakes - my GF was pushing the pedal and my master cylinder moved about 15mm with her pushing the pedal with high effort. That is a lot if you ask me.

+1

Also, although you cant feel it all that much, im sure the firewall is still flexing a little even with normal braking, over time that has to cause structural weakness where the booster is mounted to the fire wall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...