Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know of them from marvelling at Arab drag/sand racing patrols over the years but not so sure they'd drop straight into an engine bay designed for an RB-series engine. An RB30 is not a completely different family of engine by any stretch.

  • Replies 285
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It all comes down to intended purpose. It seems people want to say outright that an RB30 bottom end is better no disadvantages. While in certain circumstances this might be true. It is definitely not true in all.

Weighed up going RB30 for my R32 GTR streeter and found that it would probably be a fair bit of mucking around plus legality, insurance and resale. Now had it been for a circuit or drag car I would of been more than happen to whack the RB30 bottom end in.

Truth is time and time again the RB26 has proven it can produce big numbers. I can't realistically say I need more than what an RB26 can produce for a street driven car. I know having the 3litre bottom end would have made me feel a bit bigger in the pants but at the end of the day it would have made no difference to what I was using the car for.

and having owned an r31 with the rb30e... while it wasnt twin cam... it had head work and a large cam so it had a few more rpms up top... i also thought it would be a great idea to chuck in some 4.11 diff gears the out of a pintara instead of the 3.7s in the skyline.

now correct me if im wrong... but dont all our skylines have 4.11 gears??? which work great with the lesser capacity engines.. giving them a bit more acceleration/torque through the gears alone..

after i put the 4.11s in... i was constantly changing gears... 1st gear was non existent, it would reach redline within a second after launching... 2nd gear was over and all i was doing was 80km.. it was harsh on the driveline aswell as the engine. i changed the gears straight away and enjoyed revving it out with some time in between shifts.

For all the people that arnt interested in making " BIG " power you should pull your rb26 out and put an rb20 in for fuel economy.

Lets face it if your building a forged rb engine your doing it to make power right?

So if this is the case you cant go past the 30/26 MONSTER

That patrol is a 3.4 diesel yeah? it would surely go nicely if a head would fit on it!!

Pretty sure the motor in question is the TB48DE which is a twin cam injected petrol 4.8litre straight 6 complete with VTC (like RB25DETs). They don't rev particularly hard but are strong as hell and at the end of the day a huge motor so torque and power are going to come naturally. They are a 99.5mm bore, I doubt very very much anything RBish will suit them - I'd expect new mounts would need to be made up and they'd generally pack out an RB-intended engine bay easily, not sure what you'd use for transmission.

There is a little aftermarket support out there too, lots of >700hp ones running around in the Arab nations so there is bound to be information on them somewhere. Have a nosy here: http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Pretty sure the motor in question is the TB48DE which is a twin cam injected petrol 4.8litre straight 6 complete with VTC (like RB25DETs). They don't rev particularly hard but are strong as hell and at the end of the day a huge motor so torque and power are going to come naturally. They are a 99.5mm bore, I doubt very very much anything RBish will suit them - I'd expect new mounts would need to be made up and they'd generally pack out an RB-intended engine bay easily, not sure what you'd use for transmission.

There is a little aftermarket support out there too, lots of >700hp ones running around in the Arab nations so there is bound to be information on them somewhere. Have a nosy here: http://www.briancrower.com/makes/nissan/tb48.shtml

Yes it is the TB 4.8 litre.Try 1000 to 1200 hp in the land of sand.

Crower makes a neat stroker kit for them too. 5.1 litres to be excact. The peeps talkin dirty thirtys because they want torque could do a lot worse than have a look at one. Over all engine size is not much bigger than an rb. As soon as it cools down enough I am going to measure mine for engine height width etc. The Patrol gearbox,s are already designed to take stupendous amounts of low range torque so they can handle a fair bit. Always the option of upgrading to ppg etc as well.

At first glance the head looks straight from a neo 25. No doubt that isnt the case as I'm sure bolt patterns are different between the 2 engines but i am just as sure that the design has been lifted from the neo.

the only thing that stopped me was fear of breaking the oil pump.... thats it. nothing else.

Why not run an external oil pump bud, problem solved. Not matter what series RB motor I'd feel alot safer running that over the normal style pumps.

Back to the 26 v 30, as others have stated I think it all comes down the the purpose intended. In almost all apilcations both can be made to work as well as each other, as there's more than one way to skin a cat. It all depends on your budget, your mechanic and purpose inteded. There is so many other factors that can also influence a decisions, high revs kill/wear motors out quicker, so an rb30 that can make power at 7500 rpm would be better suited than a rb26 that needs to rev to 9000 to make the same amount? But on the other end of scale the extra torque an rb30 can make can kill gear box's, drive shafts and diff's quicker with the extra/earlier torque that can be made.

I see alot of poeple arguring that there mates uncles sisters neighbours cousins dog raced an vl with x combination vs a gtr with x combination motor, which really in the end means nothing. The only way I can see a real world test example of which one can make more power, response, torque, drivabilty accuratly is having either two identicle setups with one being a 2.6L bottom end and the other being a 3.0L or dynoing/racing an rb26 and swapping out the bottom end with an rb30 and dynoing/racing changing nothing at all and tuning to the same perameteres. That would be the fairest comparison (some might say the cam secltions would make a bit of difference being suited to the turbo selction), so untill that happens, all you can do at the end of the say is take as much imformation in, ask to go for rides and ' feel ' what both have to offer, work out a budget, find a tuner that can do what you want and enjoy what you get..

ask to go for rides and ' feel ' what both have to offer, work out a budget, find a tuner that can do what you want and enjoy what you get..

This should at least give an idea - exact same car, dyno etc. Went in to RIPS as a typical R34 GTR with all the normal bolt ons done to it, came out as an RB30DET with a T04Z. Sure the new engine is running a bigger turbo and more boost etc, but everyone here knows that if it were still a 2.6 the power would start climbing far far later. I'm sure there was another plot somewhere of an RB26 with twin T67s that ended up becoming a 3litre, I might be wrong though.

Boltons RB26DETT (stock R34 BB turbos) vs RB30DET T04Z otherwise same car:

Sparks560whpdynosheet.jpg

Why not run an external oil pump bud, problem solved. Not matter what series RB motor I'd feel alot safer running that over the normal style pumps.

problem with that being the price... the price being half my rebuild budget :S

problem with that being the price... the price being half my rebuild budget :S

That was directed at T04GTR btw...

Joeleo87, oiling is the biggest problem on the rb series motors, so I'd address that pretty seriously. I think you'll find with the yen vs aud atm that it will be a fraction cheaper going external over a tomei pump. Not sure on the prices of Jun/Greddy or the others, but whatever option you end up going its going to hurt the wallet, unless you chose the N1 + pro engines collar but personaly i'd be staying right away from the n1 pumps. As said by Dirt and RIPS it dosnt matter what motor the oil pump is on if you still rev the tits off it its going to decrease everythings life, balance everything and you'll have less issues, by the best parts you can afford and you'll have less issues and so on.. Have you though about getting a ribs stock internal rb30 bottem end, the value is excellent and pretty cheap considdering how far you can push them. :blink:

That was directed at T04GTR btw...

Joeleo87, oiling is the biggest problem on the rb series motors, so I'd address that pretty seriously. I think you'll find with the yen vs aud atm that it will be a fraction cheaper going external over a tomei pump. Not sure on the prices of Jun/Greddy or the others, but whatever option you end up going its going to hurt the wallet, unless you chose the N1 + pro engines collar but personaly i'd be staying right away from the n1 pumps. As said by Dirt and RIPS it dosnt matter what motor the oil pump is on if you still rev the tits off it its going to decrease everythings life, balance everything and you'll have less issues, by the best parts you can afford and you'll have less issues and so on.. Have you though about getting a ribs stock internal rb30 bottem end, the value is excellent and pretty cheap considdering how far you can push them. :blink:

I hear ya man... after ive replaced my G/box and Diff ill be looking into that oilling issue. As my rear turbo blew only 3 months ago ie. More boost, Rev limiting..... my oil pump will be on its way out shortly. hopefully i can replace the pump before my pump fails and bungs a bearing :S

If im to replace the pump i may as well rebuild the motor to last another 100 thousand KMs.

Exatcly.. or build it tough enough to take it. But remember you are doing this to a stock internal rb26dett with about 1/3rd more power than facotry, its days are going to be numbered ever quicker with a rev limitng driving style..

All depends how much power you'e chaising too, preped stock rods, forged pistons, acl bearings, greedy oil pump (either r33 crank or collar the r32 crank) balance every part in the rotating mass, get someone who's good at bolting it all together and you have a 400kw motor no problems. No as dear as some would make out to be and 400kw is nothing to sneeze at..

yes. but 3.5 years ago when i built my motor, i wasnt thinking of that.. if im gonna do an external pump it gonna be a propper dry sump set up..

but now days i can make a pretty good wet sump. anyone got a s2 rb30 block etc etc??????? (with the factory idler hole tapped)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...