Jump to content
SAU Community

New Dyno Results

R33GTRKid

By R33GTRKid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33GTRKid Experienced

R33GTRKid

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yesterday spent another few hours on the dyno,

attached are the sheets, dynos.pdf

the power has increased by 50 rwhp. Still have poncam gears set on 0,0, so next time, the hours will be spent dialing in the cams which should net some quicker response and maybe higher end

As you can see, I am still having a few boost control issues with my EVC6 in that it holds approx 18 pound for about 1000 rpm and then tapers off slowly no matter what we do.

If you have a look at my run-in tune graph, almost exact same spot in the revs we had the same issue Dyno1.pdf IGNORE THE EXTENDED HAND DRAWN TOP BOOST LINE, I DREW THAT IN TRYING TO ASK THE TUNER WHY IT WILL NOT STAY THERE, the true top boost line holds and then dips at at just before the 152km mark drops off

Also what is interesting is that setting a, is set at 14.3, boost will hit about 14.7 and hold steady on the road.

Setting b is set at 17 psi and will hit and hold at about 18.9psi on the road, so something is clearly amiss but not sure what, any ideas?

I think I will swap out for a pneumatic controller to see if we can get some consistent control to see if it is the EVC6 or something else but would love to hear from anyone else that may have had the same issues.

R31Nismoid, I owe you a huge apology, currently on 321RWKW on a very safe tune and only a smidge over 15 psi at the power mark with cams not dialed in yet so your ongoing advice of 300 to 330rwkw from GTSS's is spot on and I think once I resolve my boost issues (ie get it to hold a constant 17/18psi) and have the cams dialed in, I will be able to safely acheive at least the 330rwkws.

I tell you what though, the extra 50rwhp makes a HUGEEEEE difference

Edited by R33GTRKid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258861-new-dyno-results/
Share on other sites
rtune Experienced

rtune

Posted
Posted
Yesterday spent another few hours on the dyno,

attached are the sheets, dynos.pdf

still having some boost control issues.

As you can see, boost holds 18 pound for about 100 rpm and then tapers off slowly no matter what we do. I have an EVC6.

If you have a look at my run-in tune graph, almost exact same spot in the revs we had the same issue Dyno1.pdf IGNORE THE EXTENDED HAND DRAWN TOP BOOST LINE, I DREW THAT IN TRYING TO ASK THE TUNER WHY IT WILL NOT STAY THERE, the true top boost line holds and then dips at at just before the 152km mark drops off

Also what is interesting is that setting a, is set at 14.3, boost will hit about 14.7 and hold steady on the road.

Setting b is set at 17 psi and will hit and hold at about 18.9psi on the road, so something is clearly amiss but not sure what, any ideas?

for what it is worth, I have the same problem with the HKS EVC 6. I lose ~2.5psi and not just at the end, it is a gradual decay.

Have you tried one of the FUN modes - the one where you can set boost map vs RPM?

R33GTRKid Experienced

R33GTRKid

Posted
  • Author
Posted
for what it is worth, I have the same problem with the HKS EVC 6. I lose ~2.5psi and not just at the end, it is a gradual decay.

Have you tried one of the FUN modes - the one where you can set boost map vs RPM?

hey mate, Ant Scali of X-speed (licensed HKS tuner/dealer) is tuning it, so i would expect him to have done all he can to sort it. Next time it goes in (read I have some more cash) he will plumb in a t-piece to see if that holds boost and if it is, we will do a full check on their install of the controller and if all ok, look to replace the unit on warranty

Lithium Grand Master

Lithium

Posted
Posted

Congrats on the extra power, and good show manning up with the news etc - it all helps clear things up and make them more useful for future. Might be worth bumping the thread the discussion was had in and clarifying that for people using the search function in future :wacko:

Pattygtst Veteran

Pattygtst

Posted
Posted

Ash when are you hitting full boost?

Simon that looks real laggy full boost by 4600 is that normal? What are the twin gtss supposed to do? What actuator you got on there?

Power looks nice, better update you power register in the wa section, your definetly up there now.

R33GTRKid Experienced

R33GTRKid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Patty,

Yeah it may be alittle late but the cams are set on 0,0 so once they are dialed in it will bring that back probably closer to the 4,000 rpm mark and then it will be super responsive.

Ant reckons it is making the power very easy and that 431rwhp is only at 15 psi too given tapering off of boost issue.

Once we get that sorted and can run a solid 17/18 psi through, we should see a comfortable 450rwhp and that will be where I stop to keep it safe on the bottom end. Ill have to go back to plex next week to see if I can crack into the 11's, If i cant then I may hang up the keys hehe.

I have the heavy duty HKS actuators that came with the GTSS kit

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

That dyno graph is eerily reminiscent of mine. Just that I used a -5 Garrett & a different tuner. The numbers are within a few rwhp all the way up the graph.

A couple of things:

1> Why do you want to get rid of the extra boost about 5000rpm?

2> I recently checked the voltage from my Z32 AFM's from the Power FC using the peak/hold function. Spat out a few milli volts below 4.0Volts for a supposed 435 rwhp. I would be curious to see what number your give (If you have AFM's that is). I cross checked it with the Nismo AFM cruve to use the mass flow & hence calculate the engine output. Worked out spot on.

R33GTRKid Experienced

R33GTRKid

Posted
  • Author
Posted

djr81,

we have no idea why the extra boost is disappearing at about 5,000 kms odd, it seems to a boost controller issue that we cannot fix at the moment so looks like I am going to have it replaced on warranty to see if it really is the problem.

I do not have AFM's mate, as X-speed recommended D'jetro.

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Had dramas with the earlier units, one thing you can try is to put a restrictor into the signal supply line to the solonoid/actuators. It may be a case where the solonoid cannot purge off enough signal to allow the actuator to remain a little more closed (higher boost).

D-Jetro? Is it strictly a track car? For 330kw? Even stock afms would cope with that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...