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Yesterday spent another few hours on the dyno,

attached are the sheets, dynos.pdf

the power has increased by 50 rwhp. Still have poncam gears set on 0,0, so next time, the hours will be spent dialing in the cams which should net some quicker response and maybe higher end

As you can see, I am still having a few boost control issues with my EVC6 in that it holds approx 18 pound for about 1000 rpm and then tapers off slowly no matter what we do.

If you have a look at my run-in tune graph, almost exact same spot in the revs we had the same issue Dyno1.pdf IGNORE THE EXTENDED HAND DRAWN TOP BOOST LINE, I DREW THAT IN TRYING TO ASK THE TUNER WHY IT WILL NOT STAY THERE, the true top boost line holds and then dips at at just before the 152km mark drops off

Also what is interesting is that setting a, is set at 14.3, boost will hit about 14.7 and hold steady on the road.

Setting b is set at 17 psi and will hit and hold at about 18.9psi on the road, so something is clearly amiss but not sure what, any ideas?

I think I will swap out for a pneumatic controller to see if we can get some consistent control to see if it is the EVC6 or something else but would love to hear from anyone else that may have had the same issues.

R31Nismoid, I owe you a huge apology, currently on 321RWKW on a very safe tune and only a smidge over 15 psi at the power mark with cams not dialed in yet so your ongoing advice of 300 to 330rwkw from GTSS's is spot on and I think once I resolve my boost issues (ie get it to hold a constant 17/18psi) and have the cams dialed in, I will be able to safely acheive at least the 330rwkws.

I tell you what though, the extra 50rwhp makes a HUGEEEEE difference

Edited by R33GTRKid
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Yesterday spent another few hours on the dyno,

attached are the sheets, dynos.pdf

still having some boost control issues.

As you can see, boost holds 18 pound for about 100 rpm and then tapers off slowly no matter what we do. I have an EVC6.

If you have a look at my run-in tune graph, almost exact same spot in the revs we had the same issue Dyno1.pdf IGNORE THE EXTENDED HAND DRAWN TOP BOOST LINE, I DREW THAT IN TRYING TO ASK THE TUNER WHY IT WILL NOT STAY THERE, the true top boost line holds and then dips at at just before the 152km mark drops off

Also what is interesting is that setting a, is set at 14.3, boost will hit about 14.7 and hold steady on the road.

Setting b is set at 17 psi and will hit and hold at about 18.9psi on the road, so something is clearly amiss but not sure what, any ideas?

for what it is worth, I have the same problem with the HKS EVC 6. I lose ~2.5psi and not just at the end, it is a gradual decay.

Have you tried one of the FUN modes - the one where you can set boost map vs RPM?

for what it is worth, I have the same problem with the HKS EVC 6. I lose ~2.5psi and not just at the end, it is a gradual decay.

Have you tried one of the FUN modes - the one where you can set boost map vs RPM?

hey mate, Ant Scali of X-speed (licensed HKS tuner/dealer) is tuning it, so i would expect him to have done all he can to sort it. Next time it goes in (read I have some more cash) he will plumb in a t-piece to see if that holds boost and if it is, we will do a full check on their install of the controller and if all ok, look to replace the unit on warranty

Congrats on the extra power, and good show manning up with the news etc - it all helps clear things up and make them more useful for future. Might be worth bumping the thread the discussion was had in and clarifying that for people using the search function in future :wacko:

Ash when are you hitting full boost?

Simon that looks real laggy full boost by 4600 is that normal? What are the twin gtss supposed to do? What actuator you got on there?

Power looks nice, better update you power register in the wa section, your definetly up there now.

Patty,

Yeah it may be alittle late but the cams are set on 0,0 so once they are dialed in it will bring that back probably closer to the 4,000 rpm mark and then it will be super responsive.

Ant reckons it is making the power very easy and that 431rwhp is only at 15 psi too given tapering off of boost issue.

Once we get that sorted and can run a solid 17/18 psi through, we should see a comfortable 450rwhp and that will be where I stop to keep it safe on the bottom end. Ill have to go back to plex next week to see if I can crack into the 11's, If i cant then I may hang up the keys hehe.

I have the heavy duty HKS actuators that came with the GTSS kit

That dyno graph is eerily reminiscent of mine. Just that I used a -5 Garrett & a different tuner. The numbers are within a few rwhp all the way up the graph.

A couple of things:

1> Why do you want to get rid of the extra boost about 5000rpm?

2> I recently checked the voltage from my Z32 AFM's from the Power FC using the peak/hold function. Spat out a few milli volts below 4.0Volts for a supposed 435 rwhp. I would be curious to see what number your give (If you have AFM's that is). I cross checked it with the Nismo AFM cruve to use the mass flow & hence calculate the engine output. Worked out spot on.

djr81,

we have no idea why the extra boost is disappearing at about 5,000 kms odd, it seems to a boost controller issue that we cannot fix at the moment so looks like I am going to have it replaced on warranty to see if it really is the problem.

I do not have AFM's mate, as X-speed recommended D'jetro.

Had dramas with the earlier units, one thing you can try is to put a restrictor into the signal supply line to the solonoid/actuators. It may be a case where the solonoid cannot purge off enough signal to allow the actuator to remain a little more closed (higher boost).

D-Jetro? Is it strictly a track car? For 330kw? Even stock afms would cope with that.

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