Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a decided to cut my losses on my series 2 and buy a gtr so decided to wreck the whole car, (sadly), was hit front centre and pushed everything to the right.

Please call me on my mobile as i have this week off work and also don't have much internet access to check PM's (Shannon) 0450 052 809

Car Is white so obviously all panels are White and in perfect condition.

Gearbox 115,000ks $1500

Mines ECU Dynoed at 297 RWHP have dyon sheet on 12psi $700

Rb25det complete motor. Loom Turbo can see running. $2900 for the lot may seperate loom and turbo.

Splitfire Coil packs Series 2 $430

2 Bootlids and series 2 wings, one white one silver $300 each will serperate wings.

Tailights $200 pair

Skyline boot garnish $80

Diff $250

Axels $150

Brake Calipers Discs and Pads, $850

Rear Bar perfect condition $180

Adjustable Rear Camber arms $160 pair

Catback exhaust full 3inch only one cannon on back $240

Bellmouth Dump Mild steel $150

Rear Cradle assembley minus diff and brakes and axles $200

Tailshaft $180

Walboro Fuel pump used but working perfectly $170

Complete Interior,A/C panel cluster 115,000ks ($130) seats, trims, carpet, door trims, roof lining everything minus dash pad and steering wheel, - Open to offers on whatever you need.

AVS Wheels slight gutter gash 17x8 and 17x9 not sure on offset fills 33 guards perfect grey in colour $600 (Pics to come)

Master cylinder $ 120

Brake Booster $100

Pedal Box $100

Clutch Slave, master cylinder and lines $190

Steering Rack $140

Front and Rear Hubs $400 the lot

Adjustable front Castor arms still in box $150

LHF front guard $150

Doors Complete with window regs if you need $200 each, 2 White ones- 2 Silver/Grey ones

RHF headlight mount broken $100

All bits and pieces under bonnet fuse box hoses etc hear and there make offers on what you need

A/C compressor $120

Rear Quarters in perfect condition, front end damage repairable not a write off will sell complete Bare shell $1000

Please call me on my mobile as i have this week off work and also don't have much internet access to check PM's (Shannon) 0450 052 809

If there is anything else i havent listed that is in a 33 that you need dont hesistate to call everything must go.

Thankyou :devil:

Will get Pics up most likely next weekend but we all no what skyline parts look like

Edited by 13thracer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259126-wrecking-r33-series-2-brisbane/
Share on other sites

its a full standalone MINES ECU has the embossing and numbers stamped for authenticity and will only work in a series 2 r33, its a great ECU absolutely loved the power and driving profile it gave the car.

Please call the number if you want anything, this add was done up for a friend as he doesnt have internet access at home. I can reply to pms but is much much easier if you just call him on the number above as you will get a much faster accurate reply.

All parts are located at Marsden for all those that want to know

thankyou

UPDATE

Gearbox 115,000ks SOLD

Mines ECU Dynoed at 297 RWHP have dyno sheet on 12psi $650

Rb25det complete motor. Loom Turbo can see running. $2800 for the lot may seperate loom and turbo would prefer to sell complete.

Splitfire Coil packs Series 2 $420

2 Bootlids and series 2 wings, one white one silver $300 each will serperate wings.

Tailights $200 pair

Skyline boot garnish $80

Diff $250

Axels $150

Brake Calipers Discs and Pads, $850

Rear Bar perfect condition $180

Adjustable Rear Camber arms Sold

Catback exhaust full 3inch only one cannon on back SOLD

Bellmouth Dump Mild steel SOLD

Rear Cradle assembley minus diff and brakes and axles $200

Tailshaft $180

Walboro Fuel pump used but working perfectly $170

Complete Interior,A/C panel seats, trims, carpet, door trims, roof lining everything minus dash pad and steering wheel, - Open to offers on whatever you need.

Cluster 115,000ks ($130)

AVS model 5 - Wheels slight gutter gash 17x8 and 17x9 not sure on offset fills 33 guards perfect grey in colour $600 The Pic isnt of the actual wheels but thats the style they are.

Master cylinder $ 120

Brake Booster $100

Pedal Box $100

Clutch Slave, master cylinder and lines $190

Steering Rack $140

Front and Rear Hubs $400 the lot

Adjustable front Castor arms still in box SOLD

LHF front guard $150

Doors Complete with window regs if you need $200 each, 2 White ones- 2 Silver/Grey ones

RHF headlight mount broken $100

All bits and pieces under bonnet fuse box hoses etc hear and there make offers on what you need

A/C compressor $120

Rear Quarters in perfect condition, front end damage repairable not a write off will sell complete Bare shell $1000

Please call me on my mobile as its the best way to contact (Shannon) 0450 052 809

If there is anything else i havent listed that is in a 33 that you need dont hesistate to call everything must go.

Thankyou

post-29410-1236245583_thumb.jpg

Edited by 13thracer

Here are some pics, whole everything must go, there is a complete car for sale not just what is listed if you want something call the number to see if its available.

post-29410-1236395398_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395409_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395414_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395418_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395428_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395433_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395438_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395442_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395447_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395452_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395458_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395463_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395469_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395474_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395479_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395487_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395492_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395497_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395502_thumb.jpg

post-29410-1236395510_thumb.jpg

hey mate. does the mines ECU cancel out the need for a AFM?? and what else would need to be done to the motor to suit the tune? is more boost, front mount and exhaust enough to make it work well enough?

is it possible to reprogram this anywhere just in case?

NO it doesnt cancel out the AFM, it is a straight plug in replacement for a standard one. It is a genuine MINES ECU from JAPAN has all the stamps and stickers on it to prove its authenticity. As far i i know it can not be remapped but have never even looked into that to be honest so it may be possible. Was running on a R33 with FMIC, Full 3 inch exhaust (turbo back), and 12psi no other mods and it ran perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...