Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, the story thus far.

My RB20 has pretty much shat itself. The head is likely to be cracked - I've had enough of it. I have a few options.

- Another RB20. I've been quoted $1500 for the full kit (is this too much? It seems high), with 6 months warranty.

- RB26 Conversion. Has anyone done this for an R32? What extra needs to be done plumbing wise?

- RB25 Conversion. Another option, but apparently it will need alot of work done.

Any advice at all would be great on the above conversions in particular.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/
Share on other sites

If you need to do this on a budget go rb20

A great car is the rb25 r32

RB26 gtst will be a heap of mucking around and money

Thanks for the quick response. Have you done a RB25 conversion? I'd like to know what needs to be done, whether my current RB30 turbo will bolt on nice and easy, what extra plumbing I'll need to do, etc. I'll be really curious to pull apart my current RB20 though to find exactly what has been done to it, seeing as it is pushing out 186kw@rears (well it was before BANG)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4453554
Share on other sites

No dramas

No i havnt, ive got a GTR so ive done the rb30 conversion with the 26 head.

Do you plan on doing the work yourself or a workshop doing it for you?

The work will be done at a workshop nice and cheap by mates of my dad, so all of that will be looked after. The RB20 I've been quoted is an import so it will very likely be low km's, but the warranty is the thing I'm liking the most. I didn't expect $1500 however so I'm not sure if I'm being ripped off there (the importer quoted my mechanic, those two have a business relationship already so I'm unsure). I just want the car to be as quick, if not quicker than what it was seeing as I have to rebuild the motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4453572
Share on other sites

Sort of same thing but i used to have an RB20 cefiro and converted it to RB25 including g/box when mine went bang!!

All i can say is that it was well worth it!!! I sourced a 20,000km RB25DET out of a Stagea so same as R34GTT one, w/gearbox + ecu, loom, all bits n pieces for just under 3.5K including shipping. That was about 4 years ago so should be cheaper these days.

The performance gain is just so so worth it. The torque, delivery, response of the RB25 is so much better IMO.

AS for what is required to do the conversion... well not sure if it is the same between Cefiro and R32, but it was crossmembers and engine mount locations, gearbox mounts and exhaust location..... then ur usual re-wiring for the loom..... fair bit of work but just time intensive....... If your budget can stretch to about $4K then do the RB25 conversion....

My 2 C

Ando

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4453856
Share on other sites

What for?

When I bought the car a couple of months ago it had been worked quite a bit...so Exhaust, HKS Pod Filter, very black tint, aftermarket intercooler, BOV, and whatever our friends at the pit can find. Not to mention that I'm still on my P's so I got doubleraped. Thankfully though, the cop was decent...didn't give me an EPA fine, only an RTA one so it was $82 no points. P plater/turbo however, $405 3 points.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4456747
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So yeah, list is as follows (probably forgotten some stuff)

Intercooler - removed or engineered (doing the latter)

ECU - SAFCII apparently non compliant, need a stock ECU

Turbo - RB30 bolt on is non compliant, need a stock Turbo

Window Tint - since the car was ADR complied in 2000 its too dark, needs to be removed

Suspension - Bilstien coilovers need to be put back to stock ride height

Exhaust - Needs to be put back to stock, otherwise the car would need to go down to the EPA join in Penrith and tbh, f**k that

Pod filter & BOV - obvious ones, but least of my worries

So yeah, if anyone has a stock exhaust, ecu and turbo lying around for sale, please let me know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4492978
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Not having much luck are you, how long do you have left on your p-plates?

I have a stock turbo for sale if your interested:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...73#entry4530573

I also have other items at my place like a stock turbo back exhaust and airbox ect that i'm not selling, but if your in the area you can borrow them to clear the defect then give them back..... i just want to keep them for myself so i'm not in the same boat as you if i get done for a "random breath test" and defected haha

Good luck with it mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259232-car-woes/#findComment-4530594
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...