Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Ive had this anoying sqeak for the past week or so only notice it when im going slow and theirs minimal road noise (under say 40km/h). Tonight decided to investigate it a bit more. Ive worked out that when I push down on the Passenger front guard to compress/move suspension it makes the sound.

I removed the wheel and sprayed some inox on the any moving parts i could see to see if somethings just super dry or whatever and then put the wheel back on and had another push and the f**kers still their. :blink:

If i was to remove the coilover and completely remove all the suspension components lube them up and re install will I loose any camber or toe/alignment settings?

Any ideas?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259313-anoying-sqeak-from-front-left/
Share on other sites

i had the same thing. and i know the frustration in trying to find it. but i ended up finding it.

pull the wheel off and undo the bolt at the front of the upper control arm. the is a bush in there with a spring assisted lip seal on it. get some lubex or inox or similar and spary it inside that bush. i poped the spring off and gently lifted the seal up with a small flatblade screwdriver and spayed a heap of Lubex in there.

when you are putting it all back together, put the bolt back in and just nip it up. then lower the car first before doing it up tight.

Yep, QWK32 has it right: I had exactly the same issue from both sides at the front: lubed up all the bushes and it was fine... I'd give that a shot first, and chances are it'll fix the issue.

what am i being carefull for when it springs up will it bash the guard? or just keep my hands clear?

If its just to avoid hand injury ill get cheffstagea over here to do it and not tell him... ive bled many times due to his cars :@!

what am i being carefull for when it springs up will it bash the guard? or just keep my hands clear?

If its just to avoid hand injury ill get cheffstagea over here to do it and not tell him... ive bled many times due to his cars :@!

yeppp cheeerssss

Bang on the money here guys!

Jacked the front on stands. off with the wheel.

Took the bolt out and removed the spings from each seal and pried the seals off. Sprayed some inox inside and then pulled the inserts out of the bush and greased the life out of everyhting. Put it back together and put wheel on dropped car down and snugged the bolt up.

Queit as a mouse =)

Thanks a heap josh!

  • 3 weeks later...

You could just use the whiteline adjustable ones, I've got them in but I'm starting to get the noise on the RHS. I just had a wheel alignment so I'm not going to bother stuffing up my front camber settings just to get rid of a slight squeak.

  • 4 months later...

Just tried to get the MF out. No can do with 17mm ring an two foot lever. Need to get my rattler back.

Incidently when I wanted to search for this thread I typed in "squeak' and got no response. The original post was "sqeak".

Typed that and bingo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...