Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guyz just wondering how much i could sell my Non Turbo r33 for?

Its in excellent condition inside and out. The paint shines like woah. i take car of it and remove every small mark i see on it(bird crap).

The engine is in excellent condition. i took it for a major service at Auto workshop after i bought it and they said it had no problems except the brakes which they replaced.

it has no leaks and that i am sure coz i have a habit of looking underneath my car all the time coz of the pulsar i had a while ago which used to leak after every few weeks(1 drop) lol. The car has no rattles or anything or rust. one thing is the gear boot thing, the cloth is worn lol.

Its got brandnew tyres.

Its got RAYS rims. it says somethin like angels trail. and it says Rays engineering inside the wheel thats how i know its rays lol.

Its lowered.

The interior looks really nice with the skyline badged mats. (thats why i loved it) its really clean.

I just love the car(i want a turbo one thats why i am selling it).

I like it so much that i dont feel like selling it and i wanna turbo it but alot of people have sed its better i buy a turbo one than adding turbo coz it costs more. i even asked the guys at AutoWorkshop.

Its done 162,000kms and its a 1993 r33.

I payed 9000 for it and i bought 2 new tyres ($500), serviced it($700). Rego....

If you wanna have a look at it. check the link below in my Sig.

How much do u think i can get for it. i wanna know whats the last price i shud stick to.

I really wanna buy a turbo one by june or july, so need to sell it.

Cheers.

Edited by VishR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259356-whats-the-right-price/
Share on other sites

Yeah you might be able to get 7-8K for it but in this market at this time would have to be the worst to sell. Ask around 11K / 10K for it and see if you get any bites but I can't stress enough, if you don't have to sell it at this point in time, don't, this market is a buyers market not a sellers. Out of all the cars I've owned and sold, 3 of which were skylines I never lost a dime (made a profit on 2 of them) until my last one which I didn't even own for 6 months, should have been able to sell it easily for much more than I bought it for (as I got it for killer cheap) and then I managed to lose over 2K in it... shame I had to sell it at that time otherwise I would have held onto it until I got the real price it deserved!!!

R33's held a really steady price for about 2 years and only in the last 6 - 8 months have they crashed down to next to nothing which is a real shame... yet the R34's are still holding a decent price!!!

But I must say, you do have an advantage owning a non-turbo, there is always a few youngsters that are after a nice looking car that their parents don't mind them getting (without worrying about killing themselves with a turbo)!

Sold my '94 N/A for $8k mid 2007. Only had ~$1200 stereo, catback exhaust and rims... no kit or anything.

As Jess said.... it was a 17 year old dude who just got his licence and I think it was a mix between parents not wanting him to get a turbo and cheaper insurance etc.

Thanx Guyz.

I think i will do what u sed Jessr33. Will wait and sell it later.or maybe i will still keep it for sale at 10000 and wait until somebody pops up.

I wish i had a GTR so i cud sell it easily since everyone wants them, but then why would i want to sell it. hahaha

:D

Thats different though mate. $4300 isnt very much at all. Both of our cars have immaculate exteriors, interiors, and engine. We also need the money from our cars to buy our next cars. If I could afford to sell mine that low I definately would, I have a lot of mates who would appreciate it and look after it as well as I have.

but on that note

any skyline (na or turbo) is hard to sell, unless you reduce it to a stupidly low price

im with Rhys on this, if your not to fussed about the sale time frame just hold onto it until someone comes along

people who buy these cars are either wankers making a statement or enthusiastic person who wants a different/unique ride

Edited by R32 Driver

I bought my r33 gtst for $9k last August, it was immaculate with pod and fmic and harlequin+flake paint, bar some marks on the bonnet and a small crack in the front bar it was quite a steal.

Before I found it I almost swallowed my pride and bought an NA, but there was no way I was going to pay more than $7k for an NA 33 regardless of how immaculate it was,

So if the opinion of a recent buyer helps.... :D

Its difficult to say.

Car prices have dropped hugely with the economic depression.

And its dependent on how long u can wait to get the right price.

You can pick up mod'd turbo S13's for 7-9K.

So I would try to sell it for what u bought it for. And then drop the price depending on how much u wanna loose and how fast u wanna sell it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...