Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after peoples opinions on what is the better management system to go with..

micotech ltx12's or the haltech 11v2

im running a fully built rb25/30 in my cefiro.

looking for mid to high 300rwkw's

computer and run in is my next step..

cheers

tom

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259772-microtech-versus-haltech/
Share on other sites

i plan on having it tuned by boost worx in adelaide..

they do haltech and microtech as far as im aware..

i have only briefly spoke on the phone with them and they didnt specify a favourite..

my engine builder suggested a autoronic ecu..

at the time he wanted to run my motor in on the engine dyno with the autoronic but the outright cost of that was to much for me at the time.

my original plan was the microtech..

now im contemplating a haltech

Making the choice between a microtech and a haltech is pretty much like making a choice of recieving a gift of $5 or 5 million $.

BTW. the microtech is the $5 incase you did not work that one out.

*sigh* another hatred of microtech thread.

What does your tuner like to tune, go from there. No matter what half these people say the microtech aint shit. It's cheap, is MAP sensored, easy to install (with plug in loom), launch control, multiple maps and has shit loads of features and runs fine.

It all comes down to what people like to tune, i dont tune the car so aslong as my car is nice to drive and makes the power i couldnt give two shits what ECU is running it.

I'm good friends with my tuner and he likes tuning Microtech's, hence why i bought one.

Edited by PM-R33

The Microtech dosen't seem to be as common a choice on Skylines, though everyonewith a VL Turbo seems to run one, same family of motors? Perhaps one of the tuners could explain further?

Mine has various issues, which seems to be a common thing with them (ie plugs fouling fast, bad fuel consumption due to not running 02 sensor, rough idling when cold). I like the dash display with it's array of warning lights and electronic gauges, but I'm seriously thinking about taking it out and running a remapped R32 ecu.

alrighty.. think ill be best to give boostworx a call and have a bit of chat about what to go with and what they would prefer to tune...

im sorta swinging towards to haltech after spending so much on the motor.

engine is only as good as the systems that support it

cheeers guys..

appreciate it :P

Nothing wrong with a microtech.

They dont have the same resolution of a haltech, but can be tuned by almost anyone and doesnt take long to tune.

They're a more basic computer, but that means there's less stuff to go wrong.

Mine has various issues, which seems to be a common thing with them (ie plugs fouling fast, bad fuel consumption due to not running 02 sensor, rough idling when cold). I like the dash display with it's array of warning lights and electronic gauges, but I'm seriously thinking about taking it out and running a remapped R32 ecu.

How fast are the plugs fouling up? I change mine every 5000km and they are perfectly fine when taken out.

Why don't you run an O2 sensor? Mine does.

Ok the rough idling when cold is sometimes true, but doesn't bother me at all (sounds tuff). This is not really a Microtech issue, but a tuning issue running MAP sensors. It is hard to get it perfect and you will find the same issue with most MAP sensored ECU's when not tuned perfectly.

Edited by PM-R33

if you have a old datto with a FJ20 or something old and rough that did not have EFI before the engine conversion then the Microtech will be good for you. If you want your car to run as nice as it did with the stock ecu then don't even bother with a Microtech. They are good for WOT - nothing more :banana:

They even have WOT maps lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...