Jump to content
SAU Community

4wd Problems

Moff

By Moff,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Moff Apprentice

Moff

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I'd had a search, but unable to find anything. I wonder if I can call on your expertise to help a Brit please :banana:

Recently the 4WD light started coming on in the Stagea. Attessa fluid was a little low, so I topped it up, hasn't dropped since topping it up.

We have had a bit of Snow recently, so have been having some fun, so 4WD was working quite hard.

It feels like the 4WD is locking, as at low speeds, when turning the car seems to almost skip a little..

I am currently in Germany, and have a 650 mile drive home in a few days, my main concern is can I drive the car back home ??? :eek:

Here are some pics of the underside... Any help appreciated.

underneath_stage3.jpg

underneath_stage2.jpg

underneath_stage1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/
Share on other sites
RBPOWA-(TJ) Grand Master

RBPOWA-(TJ)

Posted
Posted

bare with me on this , straigh out of the manual.

: The light will illuminate when the ignitions is turned ON and turn off when the engine is started.

: The light will illuminate if there is an abnormality in the Atessa E-TS sytem.

: There are occasions when the front tyres is large.

Warning

: when the 4WD warning light shows or will not illuminate when the ignition is in the ON postition, have your vehicle checked by your Nissan Dealer ASAP.

: If thewarning light flashes check that all tyres are the same size and brand. (only use tyres that are the same size and brand). check pressure and put air in if pressure is low. If the light continues to flash, have you car checking by your Nissan Dealer.

Advice

: If the light turns on when driving, the Attesa E-TS system will cease functioning but normal driving will be possible.

: A 'motor' noise might be heard when starting the engine or while driving. If the noise stops straight away this is not an abnormality

Hope this helps Tim. safe driving :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/#findComment-4462001
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys,

I'd had a search, but unable to find anything. I wonder if I can call on your expertise to help a Brit please :D

Recently the 4WD light started coming on in the Stagea. Attessa fluid was a little low, so I topped it up, hasn't dropped since topping it up.

We have had a bit of Snow recently, so have been having some fun, so 4WD was working quite hard.

It feels like the 4WD is locking, as at low speeds, when turning the car seems to almost skip a little..

I am currently in Germany, and have a 650 mile drive home in a few days, my main concern is can I drive the car back home ??? :eek:

Here are some pics of the underside... Any help appreciated.

underneath_stage3.jpg

underneath_stage2.jpg

underneath_stage1.jpg

Try bleeding the system. There is a bleed nipple at the back of the gear box extension. With the motor running crack open the nipple and watch for air. Preferably have someone else watching the reservoir and top up as necessary until fluid runs ok.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/#findComment-4462025
Share on other sites
Moff Apprentice

Moff

Posted
  • Author
Posted
bare with me on this , straigh out of the manual.

: The light will illuminate when the ignitions is turned ON and turn off when the engine is started.

: The light will illuminate if there is an abnormality in the Atessa E-TS sytem.

: There are occasions when the front tyres is large.

Warning

: when the 4WD warning light shows or will not illuminate when the ignition is in the ON postition, have your vehicle checked by your Nissan Dealer ASAP.

: If thewarning light flashes check that all tyres are the same size and brand. (only use tyres that are the same size and brand). check pressure and put air in if pressure is low. If the light continues to flash, have you car checking by your Nissan Dealer.

Advice

: If the light turns on when driving, the Attesa E-TS system will cease functioning but normal driving will be possible.

: A 'motor' noise might be heard when starting the engine or while driving. If the noise stops straight away this is not an abnormality

Hope this helps Tim. safe driving ;)

Thank you, that is a rather helpful :)

Try bleeding the system. There is a bleed nipple at the back of the gear box extension. With the motor running crack open the nipple and watch for air. Preferably have someone else watching the reservoir and top up as necessary until fluid runs ok.

Do you have a pic of what the nipple looks like ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/#findComment-4462648
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • drifter17a
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By drifter17a · Posted

      Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Kapr
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Ozdavroz
      ATCC Amaroo Park 1987

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • robbo_rb180
      WTB RB25 Gearbox NSW / central west

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • robbo_rb180
      ATCC Amaroo Park 1987

      By robbo_rb180 · Posted

      Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...