Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'd had a search, but unable to find anything. I wonder if I can call on your expertise to help a Brit please :banana:

Recently the 4WD light started coming on in the Stagea. Attessa fluid was a little low, so I topped it up, hasn't dropped since topping it up.

We have had a bit of Snow recently, so have been having some fun, so 4WD was working quite hard.

It feels like the 4WD is locking, as at low speeds, when turning the car seems to almost skip a little..

I am currently in Germany, and have a 650 mile drive home in a few days, my main concern is can I drive the car back home ??? :eek:

Here are some pics of the underside... Any help appreciated.

underneath_stage3.jpg

underneath_stage2.jpg

underneath_stage1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/
Share on other sites

bare with me on this , straigh out of the manual.

: The light will illuminate when the ignitions is turned ON and turn off when the engine is started.

: The light will illuminate if there is an abnormality in the Atessa E-TS sytem.

: There are occasions when the front tyres is large.

Warning

: when the 4WD warning light shows or will not illuminate when the ignition is in the ON postition, have your vehicle checked by your Nissan Dealer ASAP.

: If thewarning light flashes check that all tyres are the same size and brand. (only use tyres that are the same size and brand). check pressure and put air in if pressure is low. If the light continues to flash, have you car checking by your Nissan Dealer.

Advice

: If the light turns on when driving, the Attesa E-TS system will cease functioning but normal driving will be possible.

: A 'motor' noise might be heard when starting the engine or while driving. If the noise stops straight away this is not an abnormality

Hope this helps Tim. safe driving :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/#findComment-4462001
Share on other sites

Hi Guys,

I'd had a search, but unable to find anything. I wonder if I can call on your expertise to help a Brit please :D

Recently the 4WD light started coming on in the Stagea. Attessa fluid was a little low, so I topped it up, hasn't dropped since topping it up.

We have had a bit of Snow recently, so have been having some fun, so 4WD was working quite hard.

It feels like the 4WD is locking, as at low speeds, when turning the car seems to almost skip a little..

I am currently in Germany, and have a 650 mile drive home in a few days, my main concern is can I drive the car back home ??? :eek:

Here are some pics of the underside... Any help appreciated.

underneath_stage3.jpg

underneath_stage2.jpg

underneath_stage1.jpg

Try bleeding the system. There is a bleed nipple at the back of the gear box extension. With the motor running crack open the nipple and watch for air. Preferably have someone else watching the reservoir and top up as necessary until fluid runs ok.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/#findComment-4462025
Share on other sites

bare with me on this , straigh out of the manual.

: The light will illuminate when the ignitions is turned ON and turn off when the engine is started.

: The light will illuminate if there is an abnormality in the Atessa E-TS sytem.

: There are occasions when the front tyres is large.

Warning

: when the 4WD warning light shows or will not illuminate when the ignition is in the ON postition, have your vehicle checked by your Nissan Dealer ASAP.

: If thewarning light flashes check that all tyres are the same size and brand. (only use tyres that are the same size and brand). check pressure and put air in if pressure is low. If the light continues to flash, have you car checking by your Nissan Dealer.

Advice

: If the light turns on when driving, the Attesa E-TS system will cease functioning but normal driving will be possible.

: A 'motor' noise might be heard when starting the engine or while driving. If the noise stops straight away this is not an abnormality

Hope this helps Tim. safe driving ;)

Thank you, that is a rather helpful :)

Try bleeding the system. There is a bleed nipple at the back of the gear box extension. With the motor running crack open the nipple and watch for air. Preferably have someone else watching the reservoir and top up as necessary until fluid runs ok.

Do you have a pic of what the nipple looks like ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259859-4wd-problems/#findComment-4462648
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...