Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I looked at another Stagea today RS Four S and its got the rust under the side mirrors. I don't mind buying it and fixing it but i need to know as soon as possible:

A) How much will it cost too fix?

B) How much work is involved?

C) Will it be a straight forward job?

D) Have any of the Brizzy Boys got this done?

If so who did they get to do it?

And were they happy?

Edited by mattye

ive had a bit of a look into this.

A) around $400 i was quoted roughly

B) Pretty easy fix relatively speaking (not highly structural and usually small and surface) - best to do it asap

C) most cases, a qualified professional will consider it to be an "easy task"

D) not in brizzy

panel shop will do it if it is not too bad, alot of places dont deal with rust because they are mostly insurance mobs.

providing it is not too deep, it can be rubbed back, treated, bogged and sprayed rather easily.

put some kill rust or fish oil on it in the mean time to stop it getting far worse.

it is hard to find a stagea recently imported free of rust in this location, every one i saw had it, some worse than others.

ensure there is limited rust elsewhere and in non structural locations.

mine has rust but the rest of the car is perfect!

So I looked at another Stagea today RS Four S and its got the rust under the side mirrors. I don't mind buying it and fixing it but i need to know as soon as possible:

A) How much will it cost too fix?

B) How much work is involved?

C) Will it be a straight forward job?

D) Have any of the Brizzy Boys got this done?

If so who did they get to do it?

And were they happy?

It is a design fault. Fix asap. Remove door cards, mirror, piece of foam that collects water and makes it rust. Preferably weld in steel to fix hole. Replace foam with stuff treated with a waxy water resistant product. Had to do it to both my Stageas about $400 for two doors. Get a few quotes from panel and paint shops because some of them don't like doing small non-insurance jobs like this and will quote very high. Will be better than new when finished.

Thanks heaps guys. Yeh there is only rust here and theres a bit under the seal for the hatch. Their all not realy too bad. Otherwise its good. Its a pearlesant white one, will they be fine colour matching? In essence its so small a spot that you probs wouldn't notice if it wasn't a perfect match.

It is a design fault. Fix asap. Remove door cards, mirror, piece of foam that collects water and makes it rust. Preferably weld in steel to fix hole. Replace foam with stuff treated with a waxy water resistant product. Had to do it to both my Stageas about $400 for two doors. Get a few quotes from panel and paint shops because some of them don't like doing small non-insurance jobs like this and will quote very high. Will be better than new when finished.

Where would I get the new foam from?

Would the pannel shop organise that? (if i ask them to)

RBPOWA: Yes, I have the strut tower rust as well: apparently it's cosmetic, but I will be getting it sorted asap nonetheless...

mattye: I recently had the rust from my mirrors fixed: I had to buy a replacement drivers door skin, and they only fixed the passenger door because the doorskin was proving too difficult to source. My car is also Silky Snow (pearl white), and I would challenge anyone to pick where the paint was blended: you cannot tell the difference between original and resprayed, so you should have nothing to worry about, so long as you use a competent spray shop...

Some time this year, I'm planning on replacing both doors with new ones - the price is higher than the repair/respray route, but I'm hoping that it will last better in the local climate.

The price was around $650 each for new ones.

Some time this year, I'm planning on replacing both doors with new ones - the price is higher than the repair/respray route, but I'm hoping that it will last better in the local climate.

The price was around $650 each for new ones.

They will rust just the same as the old ones because of the way water gets trapped in them. If you get yours repaired properly i.e. steel welded in and the foam replaced with stuff treated with the waxy anti -water stuff (sorry don't know the technical term for it) they will be better than new for 1/4 of the price.
mattye: I recently had the rust from my mirrors fixed: I had to buy a replacement drivers door skin, and they only fixed the passenger door because the doorskin was proving too difficult to source. My car is also Silky Snow (pearl white), and I would challenge anyone to pick where the paint was blended: you cannot tell the difference between original and resprayed, so you should have nothing to worry about, so long as you use a competent spray shop...

Why did you have to replace the door skin? I assume you mean the inside trim. Whats one worth?

They will rust just the same as the old ones because of the way water gets trapped in them. If you get yours repaired properly i.e. steel welded in and the foam replaced with stuff treated with the waxy anti -water stuff (sorry don't know the technical term for it) they will be better than new for 1/4 of the price.

I hear what you're saying, my concern is that the drivers' door has flaky rust on the inside a good 50mm lower than the 'shelf' that the mirror fits into. The repair shop that I went to were quite honest in saying that they wouldn't be able to fix it to the standard that they'd like. The passengers' door isn't as bad, so a repair there may work just fine.

(I'm also going to get the roof resprayed, as it has some rusty stone chips on it)

I'm still considering my options, but either way the door hardware will get modified to significantly reduce the likelihood of it recurring in the future. That in conjunction with the fact that it never bloody rains here anymore should do the trick! :)

theres a little sponge behind the rust, if you pull it apart you can see it and when it rains or gets washed it fills up... im guna take mine out and spray it with a rust disolver for now, may get it looked at later... but thats if its worth it.... on my strut towers ive got like dots in a direct line, about 5mm wide circles, 10mm apart its really weird.

Why did you have to replace the door skin? I assume you mean the inside trim. Whats one worth?

I mean the outer door skin: the painted metal part that the outside door handle sits in. Harveys Smash in Nerang did mine, and guaranteed me that they won't rust again. Not sure what the cost was, because I repaired the other door, removed the roof rails, some badges, had aftermarket mirrors fitted, colour coded the side/bumper strips (s1 ones were silver), and got a 1/2 respray at the same time... I can tell you they're not cheap, but their work is faultless.

yeah engine bay isnt consistant, here i used Cutters (cut and polish shit) to remover the brown stain for a show and shine, this is before look
Engine bay looks good. I see you have cable ties to hold the snorkel. Mine came without the two black buttons as well ... i found it OK with only the bonnet to keep it in place.
Engine bay looks good. I see you have cable ties to hold the snorkel. Mine came without the two black buttons as well ... i found it OK with only the bonnet to keep it in place.

Lol, one of those plugs was broken on our car too - I used to give my wife grief about how fast she drove it as the plug would always end up on top of the air filter after she had the car for a drive.

(Or so I said!)

Adam, can you post pics of the rust in your engine bay - it sounds quite strange...

kk. I haven't heard of that geting done before. Did you just source the skin from Nissan?

Absolutley no idea, sorry: I dropped the car off rough and picked it up 3 weeks later looking almost brand new...

washed the stag today and found a rust bubble on the pass side under the mirror, only small one, it wasnt there last weekend, ill be pulling the door card off 2moz and spray some rust stop in there to see if i can stop it getting worse. can i remove this spong/rubber peice and leave it out?

anyone got pics of inside the door to show what were all looking at, if not ill get some pics 2moz when i do it after work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lol a few are like that with no intention of being reborn unfortunately. 
    • Done, I'll do mine soon too - whenver I take out the car next. I can cheat and make it quieter by turning off VCT at idle too - but I lose the braps
    • All trim back in wired running driving. Few things to follow up on but not far off the return to the road. att.6HN4wP38LTIOISkhA8eACoBFqzfgQMahZPLA8ut0pqE.mp4 att.w2q0ux2PGuqgQTj2Os13cNHQtqcSEcCAhD_CAXy_IQM.mp4
    • The trouble with phone apps is that they really do not know the sensitivity of the mic on each specific phone, whether there is some sort of cover or skin that can change that, etc etc. So the readings off them are not calibrated. You certainly couldn't be sure that you were even within 3 dB. I have the same app on two (actually more than that) different phones/tablets and the readings in the same room at the same time are never the same. I don't mind the apps - they are as useful as a dyno - if you're testing for delta from thing1 to thing2. But not to try to generate some sort of absolute value.
    • I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.
×
×
  • Create New...