Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

a r33 gtst will get s14 and a s15 , is the 300zx turbo? the 180sx s/2 has the same motor as the 200sx as the new one, i had a 97 180sx they are qucker than r32, i think they go good as wrx,s. i had a race with a 200sx the new one in a r33 gtst and it had a big front mount and i beat it by 3 car leanth we raced up 2 about 120km

not to be bias but i say the s14/s15 should beat the r33 (from past experience). Not sure about the 300zx though. R33's are heavier than the s14/s15 and between the s14 and s15, the s15 should win due to a ball bearing turbo, lighter body and better diff. A friend of mine has a stocky 180sx and that used to beat my s14 when stock and another friend's stocky r33 too. But im sure that 180's shouldnt be THAT quick normally, just that his happens to be a bit of a freak. :)

Does it really matter? They can each be modded off their tits to beat any of the others, just depending on how much money you want to throw at it.

That's why I bought the car that I like best for reasons other than how fast it is down the 1/4 mile. And the mods that it came with made it faster than any of the aforementioned when stock. So in theory I got the best of both worlds :P

Originally posted by JimX

Does it really matter? They can each be modded off their tits to beat any of the others, just depending on how much money you want to throw at it.

That's why I bought the car that I like best for reasons other than how fast it is down the 1/4 mile. And the mods that it came with made it faster than any of the aforementioned when stock. So in theory I got the best of both worlds :P

:werd:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...