Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have some parts from a gtr ive seperated for parts for mine which i no longer need

genuine r32 gtr alloy bonnet some small dents really crappy paint easy enough to get perfect $350

passenger side r32 gtr alloy guard no indicator hole has some damage needs work $150

drivers side r32 gtr alloy guard with indicator hole great condition has a slight rub/scuff/dent $200

genuine r32 gtr grille great condition no cracks $150

genuine r32 gtr bonnet latch and support pieces complete unit $100 (needed to put gtr bonnet on gtst)

all parts located in toowoomba qld 4350 happy to freight if you organise the courier I DO NOT HAVE TIME TO GET FREIGHT PRICING

wrecking complete r32 gtr if you need anything else PM me

cheers

Edited by WHITE R32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260311-cheap-r32-gtr-front-end-parts/
Share on other sites

heres some pics...

the black guard is near perfect other than the light rub at the front of the wheel arch at the top (dusty as in pics)

and the grey guard is the one which needs work (bit wet in pics)... but been ally theyre easy enough to work with it has damage at the bottom near the jacking point from been jacked up but this is also easilly fixed and not seen because of the skirt anyway

neither guard includes the bracket that bolts onto the front as i need those

bonnet is rather good just crappy paint (wet in pics)

grille is perfect

post-1868-1236758056_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758074_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758083_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758092_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758100_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758109_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758123_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758133_thumb.jpg

post-1868-1236758142_thumb.jpg

Edited by WHITE R32

is the bracket the same as the r32 gts-t/gts brackets that u say arent included cos u need. its the little bracket near the head light right?

Do you have the diff? If so what do you want for it and can it be posted to Sydney? If its too much trouble dont worry about it, But I do need a diff soon!

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...