Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have searched this site but found nothing that helps me.

I have a mechanical boost gauge to install and would like to know where to plumb the piping to on an R32 GTS4, as it doesn't have a factory boost gauge I will no doubt have to cut a hose somewhere and install a T piece right? oh, and the boost gauge is a vacuum and pressure one -> Autometer Phantom 2-1/16' Mechanical - Boost 30 in Hg.-Vac./20 PSI

I would greatly appreciate any help at all!

PS: If anyone has pics to illustrate, great!

PPS: Does anyone know where to buy silicon hose and T piece to suit this application? Autobarn have no bloody idea down here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26035-boost-gauge-plumb-to-on-r32-gts4/
Share on other sites

haha i doubt he is fitting it on a non-turbo model.

you need to buy a T peice fitting for your vacume line, then run it into one of the vacume hoses comming from the inlet manifold, i dont have a pic to make it any easier, but there are several vacume lines you can tap into, im pretty sure that most of the little vacume hoses sticking into the inlet (plenum) will be ok to tap into. ill try take a pic tonight if no-one else has made it easier for you.

The easiest and most common place to fit your T piece is at the front of the inlet manifold using the hose on the fuel pressure regulator. Get your fittings from an auto shop like Autobarn and take the gauge with you so you make sure everything fits properly.

I've tried autobarn, but they don't have any idea (I live in the country). I think I will have to try internet sites like autospeed and whatever because I hardly make it up to melbourne where I could easily get these bits and peices.

Has anyone been to the performance shop in phillip island?

Take a cruise to Cranbourne or Dandenong they will have a better idea and service i would guess. the gauge should come with the accessories you need anyway? and the nylon hose is as good as rubber if not better.

yeah I thought about using the nylon hose, but some say it deteriates pretty quickly...? anyway I still need the T piece.

Do you know the size of the hose and T piece that I should get AutoTrust? I looked, but it doesn't say it anywhere on the box or instructions with the boost gauge...

You need to take your car and boost gauge to a decent shop and make sure that it all fits up. I don't know the measurements so i won't guess. Take a nice relaxing cruise tomorrow and i'm sure you'll get it sorted. The nylon hose supplied is good, and i would use it if possible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...