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Hi guys, I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the car up the power button light flashes 16 times. The button itself is always set in the middle, I don't bother with it.

The car shifts fine and haven't had a problem with it except a couple times it wouldn't shift up until around 4-5,000 rpm when it was really cold.

Anyone know what the flashing means? I'm taking it for a service and shift kit install soon but would like to know what the deal is before i do it.

Cheers!

See if this helps..

Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode:

  1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on
  2. Start the engine the power light will go out after 2 seconds
  3. Turn the ignition off
  4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)
  5. Overdrive off
  6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on
  7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2
  8. Overdrive on
  9. Move the selector to 1
  10. Overdrive Off
  11. Press the accelerator fully and release

Auto transmission diagnostics codes:

The error codes are flashed out using the Power light on the dashboard (R32) or the Power / Snow button (R33). The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected

3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected

4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged

9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the same with no long start flash - Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected

Ahhhhh i think i might know why, had to replace my battery not long ago to pass roadworthy... I'll check out the diagnostic feature though and see whats up.

Thanks so much for this!!! :cool:

  • 12 years later...
On 11/03/2009 at 3:16 AM, 2LV8ETR said:

See if this helps..

Enter the auto transmission diagnostics mode:

 

  1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on
  2. Start the engine the power light will go out after 2 seconds
  3. Turn the ignition off
  4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)
  5. Overdrive off
  6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on
  7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2
  8. Overdrive on
  9. Move the selector to 1
  10. Overdrive Off
  11. Press the accelerator fully and release

 

Auto transmission diagnostics codes:

The error codes are flashed out using the Power light on the dashboard (R32) or the Power / Snow button (R33). The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer Revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

2nd flash longer Speed sensor shorted or disconnected

3rd flash longer Throttle sensor shorted or disconnected

4th flash longer Shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected

5th flash longer Shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected

6th flash longer Overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected

7th flash longer Lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected

8th flash longer Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged

9th flash longer Engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected

10th flash longer Line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the same with no long start flash - Battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconnected

Hi just had a similar problem to yours when I did my sub but the only prob was I could not go up past 3 gear I checked the power and snow switch it was not pluged in I just plugged it in and it was fine again also when they dyno these cars they disconnect the power and snow switch to stay in 3 gear. I hope this fixes it for you to 

  • 11 months later...

didn't answer question what does it mean power button flashes one long sixteen short and the car only selects third gear like it is in failsafe mode

 

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...
On 26/06/2024 at 4:25 AM, damesta said:

Did you ever figure this out? My r32 is doing the same thing, 16 flashes when I turn it on and feels like it’s stuck in 3rd gear limp mode, won’t downshift at all. No errors in diag mode, did a fresh fluid flush and it made no difference.

Did anyone figure this out? Mine been doing it for years. Changed solenoid in value body along with value body and yps. Driving me crazy. 1 long 16 short flash. Thanks for any help. 

TPS not yps

1 minute ago, barrman said:

Did anyone figure this out? Mine been doing it for years. Changed solenoid in value body along with value body and yps. Driving me crazy. 1 long 16 short flash. Thanks for any help. 

TPS not yps 

8 hours ago, barrman said:

Did anyone figure this out? Mine been doing it for years. Changed solenoid in value body along with value body and yps. Driving me crazy. 1 long 16 short flash. Thanks for any help. 

Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.

Quote

Changed solenoid in value body

Which solenoid? Why was it changed?

Quote

along with value body

Again, why was this done?

Quote

and TPS

...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment?

I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem?

Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).

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