Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

will be close/borderline to being maxed.

if you were under i would say ok, if you want a solid 300+ then maybe get a 044 bosch motorsport pump, good for >400rwkw.

see how it goes, if it leans out even with extra injector duty cycle, will need to upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4471741
Share on other sites

Well Snowman ran a stock R34 GTR pump i believe with 350rwkw

Really depends on the pump, age, and so on.

Only way is to either get the tune and go off how the AFR's, fuel pressure looks... of flow test it. Although flow test @ normal flow might not show up something that wouldnt otherwise show up until pressure rises

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4471787
Share on other sites

Yeah stress an old part - why not, fuel isnt important.... :)

Bosch pumps are cheap, unless you are saving every penny just get one, then you wont have to worry :(

^^ 100% Agreed - why not just upgrade it now?

They arent super expensive and at least it gives peace of mind it will handle anything you throw at it... a few $$ spent now could save alot more $$ spent sooner than expected.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4473167
Share on other sites

l made a post regurading the same question a few months back. lets just say l was mocked by some dicks on this site even thinking of pushing that much power through a GTR fuel pump. Now l know l am not the only one who has a GTR fuel pump pushing beyond the 300RWKW mark, makes me feel a little more content with my current setup.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4474534
Share on other sites

If the pump has only done 40,000 as an example it should be fine.

When it fails, replace it ;)

Stock turbos are more of a danger than the fuel pump.

And hell, its not like Bosch pumps never fail even 1,000kms outta the box! Everything has some risk...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4474643
Share on other sites

Ive got a stock R34 GTR pump in my car made 285kw with no signs of it even being near maxed :blink:

cheaper than an 044 to ;)

Hey I'm in the camp of people that would rather not take the risk, and am looking to upgrade.

However, after reading the FAQ/tutorial thing about the bosch 044, it is clear that it is far from a bolt-on upgrade. I have been looking at an alternative that will just "drop in" to the existing in-tank cradle setup (I would rather pay the extra and not worry about the hassle of modifying things or worrying about the hose etc)

So far I have identified the nismo pump, which is about $440 plus post; also there is a sard item sold by JJR that is $700 or something, allegedly that bolts in. My question is:

1) can someone confirm the nismo item is a bolt in, no mods required (r32?) What about the sard?

2) are there any others that are better priced and drop into the existing cradle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4476401
Share on other sites

Hey I'm in the camp of people that would rather not take the risk, and am looking to upgrade.

However, after reading the FAQ/tutorial thing about the bosch 044, it is clear that it is far from a bolt-on upgrade. I have been looking at an alternative that will just "drop in" to the existing in-tank cradle setup (I would rather pay the extra and not worry about the hassle of modifying things or worrying about the hose etc)

So far I have identified the nismo pump, which is about $440 plus post; also there is a sard item sold by JJR that is $700 or something, allegedly that bolts in. My question is:

1) can someone confirm the nismo item is a bolt in, no mods required (r32?) What about the sard?

2) are there any others that are better priced and drop into the existing cradle?

Go the Nismo/Tomei drop in pump.

Its the easiest, most reliable pump replacement option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4476899
Share on other sites

just dont run e85 or your new nismo pump will die a ugly death....

and maybe your engine as well

LOL yeah, I didn't drop $ ,000's and $ ,000 on turbos, intercooler, drumps, zorst to attempt to save 5c a litre on dodgy petrol and get 30 pc worse mileage! I just run it on vortex 98, seems pretty happy.

Seriously, guys, thanks for the help, I was about the buy the bosch until I read the write up and was like "um, not for me thanks" so will go the nismo (had heard of the tomei but didn't realise it was the same thing?)

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4477445
Share on other sites

GTR pump in good condition is ample for 300 or even 350rwkw. but if there is a cloud over it's reliability (ie old R32 pump) then it can be worth replacing. I've had one fail before at 270rwkw. it didn't cause any damage when it failed but it was a pain in the arse. bosch pumps are ok, but the nismo/tomei pumps have been the most reliable in my experience but they may be just because they are a true direct fit pump where as a lot of the bosch pumps fail due to incorrect installation. you eliminate any chance of that with a nismo/tomei pump. you would have to try really hard to fk up an install of one of those.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260658-gtr-fuel-pump/#findComment-4480196
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...