Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've got a 32 gts-t with quite a few km's on it and a big turbo back exhaust and i'm looking for a few extra Nm & kw...

I'm thinking a turbo rebuild and 10psi

a pod with cold air pipe

tuning to sort it out

any ideas of any probs i may encounter with the std computer

any other mods that may be low cost (i've notice 'cooler kits are a bit pricey)

any recommended tuners in the sydney area

is a bleed valve the easy option to increase the boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26074-daily-r32-performance/
Share on other sites

1) a high flow panel filter in the stock airbox with a pipe running from the bumper feeding cold air

2) bleed valve to 11-12psi

3) SAFC tuned on a dyno to get the best a/f ratios

assuming your engine and turbo are in OK condition this shoud yield some more power to play with... and should cost less than $500 all up...

Waz.

sounds pretty good. ta for the tip...

what exactly is a SAFC? a brand of piggyback computer? forgive my ignorance

going to rebuild the turbo to be safe as i don't believe it will put up with much more boost. what boost do the ceramic wheels normally put up with?

Hi cul202, I agree with mase, get a RB25DET turbo. swap the wastegate actuator from your RB20DET turbo. RB25DET is 0.4 bar whereas RB20SET is 0.6 bar. The RB25DET turbo flows more air at the same boost level, so gives around 20 rwkw more power. It bolts straightup, so cost is minimised.

Also makes a better base for a ball bearing hi flow later on if you decide you need more.

Hope that helps

Quote:

Hi cul202, I agree with mase, get a RB25DET turbo. swap the wastegate actuator from your RB20DET turbo. RB25DET is 0.4 bar whereas RB20SET is 0.6 bar. The RB25DET turbo flows more air at the same boost level, so gives around 20 rwkw more power. It bolts straightup, so cost is minimised.

That's spot on what i did sydneykid, thanks for the tip off on the wastegate in the other thread. Lots of fun. If you want a car for straight performance then the vg30 would be good but it's a tad lagier. Rb25 turbs is good if u like a bit of drifting and a more smoother power curve.

another option is to get your standard computer re-chipped for like $200.

for about $1000 you could get about 170rwkw.

Panel filter for standard air box. - $100

rb25 turbo - $500

bleed valve - $60

rechip computer - $200

gtr fuel pump - $200

that should be about $1000 and give you a reliable 170rwkw from your RB20.

After that, the next thing should be an intercooler. It's almost summer and the stocky one is a little small for that sort of power.

A GTR intercooler is now worth about $600. piping say another $400..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...