Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Question Concerning A Brand New One...

xanavinismo
 Share

Recommended Posts

xanavinismo Rising Star

xanavinismo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I am getting a brand new Nismo Super Copper mix clutch installed in my R34 GT-R and wanted to ask you guys if these clutches need to get 'bedded' in before driving... hard? :(

If so, usually how many KM's? I ask this because I am getting my car back on Friday and will be doing a dyno tune on Saturday so I am now wondering if this will affect the dyno process??? Ie - cant push the car on the dyno because clutch isnt bedded in??? :)

Cheers for any info guys,

Edited by xanavinismo
xanavinismo Rising Star

xanavinismo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1000km?

isnt it usually 500?

And it will affect the dyno as you arent allowed to boost it or drive it hard.

And thats what ur doing on a dyno ! :P

So what happens if you dont bed in a new clutch?

shaund Enthusiast

shaund

Posted
Posted

lol... love the keyboard mechanics :P

Bedding in a clutch is pretty simple.. its all about getting the interface between the clutch material and the flywheel optimal, ie uniform across the entire surface.

The best way to achieve this is to follow the clutch manufacturer's directions. Alternatively, if none are supplied, drive it normally for ~300-500km without excesively slipping the clutch. Until its bedded in, you've got a greater chance of creating 'hotspots' on the flywheel with excessive slip, which leads to non-uniform grip on the flywheel, which can be the difference between a clutch that works well, and one that slips prematurely.

Essentially, don't launch it.

Also, note that your flywheel may need to be machined differently (different finish) for a button clutch than for an organic OEM style clutch. Pay attention to the clutch manufacturers directions.

Running your car on a dyno before bedding in the clutch is fine, stick it in 4th, (or whatever gear you are doing your run in), and away you go... on a dyno, you don't launch it like you do on the road, so there should be practically no slipping of the clutch required.

Turbo 33 Proficient

Turbo 33

Posted
Posted (edited)
lol... love the keyboard mechanics :P

Bedding in a clutch is pretty simple.. its all about getting the interface between the clutch material and the flywheel optimal, ie uniform across the entire surface.

The best way to achieve this is to follow the clutch manufacturer's directions. Alternatively, if none are supplied, drive it normally for ~300-500km without excesively slipping the clutch. Until its bedded in, you've got a greater chance of creating 'hotspots' on the flywheel with excessive slip, which leads to non-uniform grip on the flywheel, which can be the difference between a clutch that works well, and one that slips prematurely.

Essentially, don't launch it.

Also, note that your flywheel may need to be machined differently (different finish) for a button clutch than for an organic OEM style clutch. Pay attention to the clutch manufacturers directions.

Running your car on a dyno before bedding in the clutch is fine, stick it in 4th, (or whatever gear you are doing your run in), and away you go... on a dyno, you don't launch it like you do on the road, so there should be practically no slipping of the clutch required.

i was saying 1000kms of no launching and driving it easy because thats what i was told to do when i got my brass button clutch installed

Edited by Turbo 33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...