Jump to content
SAU Community

Possible Temporary Solution For Warn Syncros

shaund
 Share

Recommended Posts

shaund Enthusiast

shaund

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Just thougnt I'd share my experiances...

Seems its a pretty common complaint for people to have trouble with worn syncros. My problem was with the syncro in 4th gear. The gearbox seemed to be in pretty good condition overall, but after it warmed up, it behaved like the syncro for 4th was near on non-existant.

Shifting from 5th to 4th required me to touch on the gate on 3rd to use 3rd's syncro to spin things up, and shifting from 3rd to 4th at high RPMs was equally dificult without grinding gears. I learnt to drive around it, but it still meant that things were painful if you were caining it around a track etc and shifting from 3rd to 4th at speed.

A solution suggested to me was to use an oil additive called 'Pro-ma MBL8" Its a molybdenum based oil additive. Its quite thick and grey in colour.

I added 50mL of it to the box, and after about 50-60km, started to notice a difference on the 4th syncro. ~500km later im seriously thinking that I don't need that gearbox rebuild I was thinking about doing; it works as good as any other syncro in the box.

Price I paid was about $40 for a 250mL bottle, 50mL is enough to treat the gearbox. I'm using Penrite Transaxle 75 in the box.

Its also suitable for using in engine oil too. ~100mL for a 6cyl according to the bottle. I've put some in mine and its made a very slight difference to throttle response.

I'm not looking to push this product or generate any money for myself, this is just my genuine experiance that I hope is useful to others.

My mechanic/engineer who suggested this to me sourced it for me locally in Perth. If you can't get it from where you normally buy your stuff from you can call him (Steve) on 08 9409 7920. His workshop is north of the river (wangara).

I've attached a photo of the bottle I bought so its easy for anyone interested to regonise.

Cheers!

-Shaun

post-21536-1236835310_thumb.jpg

shaund Enthusiast

shaund

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Do not use this in auto boxes or LSD's. Also, it is reccommeded that you blend it into the oil before an oil change.

Yeah, this is all very true...

Essentially make sure you follow the directions on the back of the bottle. Should go without saying really :-o

The instructions say that when you're using it in an engine, you want to put all but the last L of oil in, idle the engine until it gets up to temperature, blend your measured ammount of Pro-ma into the last L of oil thats still in the bottle, add while the engine it hot, and then go for a good drive for 30 mins. This is essentially because the MBL will just sink to the bottom of your sump and take ages to work its way around otherwise. Seems to be turbo safe too.. at least so far so good.

In the case of gearbox oil, it dosen't give you any specific instructions. I just added it to mine and started driving (i had 2-3000km old oil in it, no need for new oil yet).. eventually its worked its way into 4th syncro and done some magic ;) I'd imagine the best way to do it for gearbox would be to drop all your oil, blend it into the new oil, pump it in and go for a drive. Its pretty thick, so blending it into the oil for a gearbox would at the very least make it easier to get in there.

I'd be really interested to hear anyone elses experiences/results with this additive.

Cheers!

-Shaun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By r32-25t · Posted

      They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTR Front Diffuser/Guard Liner questions.

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • MBS206
      Cold compression test after rebuild... should I be worried?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
×
×
  • Create New...