Stalling Stag

[pixel8r]

You mentioned that you were not sure what they did with plugs at compliance. The standard plugs for these cars are Platinum or something similar and are good for 80-100k km.

I have been reading about the Blatz, IBDII software and cable and from what I have read, although there is a lot more to read, it should help with the fault codes and allow you to reset them. At about $200 bucks it sounds like a good investment.

http://www.blazt.biz/index.php

I have also listed below the info from the manual. Some of this may help.

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning ABS0003L

DESCRIPTION

“Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator

pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time

harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.

3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.

5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning ABS0003M

DESCRIPTION

“Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve

by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of

electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

OPERATION PROCEDURE

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.

2. Turn ignition switch “ON”.

3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Cheers

Andy

Thanks for the info. I also found the above info - as well as the following:

http://www.6mt.net/forum/performance-mods/...procedures.html

Description:

Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:

Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)

- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)

- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)

- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)

- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)

- Vehicle speed: Stopped

- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:

1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"

2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"

3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.

5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.

7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:

7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.

7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.

8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.

9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.

10. Start engine and let it idle.

11. Wait 20 seconds.

12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position)

Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position)

Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position)

Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position)

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.

2. Check PCV valve operation.

3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.

4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable.

5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again:

- Engine stalls.

- Erroneous idle.

I tried this and I could confirm the CEL (check engine light) did flash for about 4-5 seconds and then stopped blinking.

However when I started the engine at step 10 it would stall seconds later. According to the above then it would seem I have a problem that needs to be sorted out first before doing this reset.

Each time it stalled (at step 10) I was able to start the engine again and it would idle at ~600rpm.

At this stage I dont think the reset was successful - and it looks like I'll need to fix the stalling issue another way. Maybe my TPS is faulty? I dont know. it would certainly explain a few things though. But if it was faulty, why does it seem to drive ok and only have an issue on idle?

btw, my apologies to the topic starter, let us know if your issue is still unresolved and if so I'm happy to move my issues into a separate thread if you like.

Edited March 15, 2009 by pixel8r

[andy65b]

mmmmmm, interesting stuff. Went through the procedure and made no difference to mine, still idles at 800 rpm. Must be something else.

Looks like I need to stick my head under the bonnet. Might also get the Blatz software and cable so I can see the outputs of all the sensors and see if they are all correct. I would rather spend $200 that way and be able to solve my problems than donate $400 + to Nissan to solve the problem.

Cheers

Andy

[pixel8r]

mmmmmm, interesting stuff. Went through the procedure and made no difference to mine, still idles at 800 rpm. Must be something else.

Looks like I need to stick my head under the bonnet. Might also get the Blatz software and cable so I can see the outputs of all the sensors and see if they are all correct. I would rather spend $200 that way and be able to solve my problems than donate $400 + to Nissan to solve the problem.

Cheers

Andy

Well since I also need a service and new front wheel bearings I've decided to let Nissan solve this one as well. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully they have all the parts there otherwise i'll need to go back again once the parts are ordered in. No big deal though.

If they find the problem I'll post up on here what it was...

[iamhe77]

Well since I also need a service and new front wheel bearings I've decided to let Nissan solve this one as well. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully they have all the parts there otherwise i'll need to go back again once the parts are ordered in. No big deal though.

If they find the problem I'll post up on here what it was...

They won't have the wheel bearing assembly's unless you have ordered them as the M35 does not share these with any locally delivered Nissan.

They are a fully sealed unit, so no re-greasing.

They are a "pop on" unit and the dealership mine went to had to make a tool for the job.

FYI, the Nissan dealership I took my M35 to get the passenger side wheel assembly done quoted me $211. They mistakingly quoted that price for part & fitment and did honour it, but that price is actually for the part itself.

Best of luck with the stalling though.

Edited March 17, 2009 by iamhe77

[JAV360]

Getting back to original topic, have you checked fuel pressure? Maybe fuel pressure regulator?

The steering will go hard when the revs are low as the pump isn't spinning fast enough to build up fluid pressure.

The throttle body has a stop that the butterfly rests against at idle (closed throttle) its on the outside and can be adjusted to raise the idle a bit.

[pixel8r]

Had my car serviced at keema nissan service centre on wednesday. Very impressed with how willing they were to help out even though a lot of parts I needed for some other stuff weren't available (suspension bushes, wheel bearings, etc).

The stalling seems to be fixed - idle is a lot smoother now, but still idles at 500-600rpm and I have noticed it dip slightly before quickly returning to 500rpm and then it will sit smooth on 500rpm.

The solution was basically a power steering flush - apparently the fluid was pretty gluggy. Steering is noticeably improved so I guess that means it was bad before...

Other than that they did use full synthetic engine oil too which was great. The last place I took it only used semi-synthetic even though I specially asked for full synthetic.

They also did a wheel rotate & balance as part of the service. Previously I thought I had some suspension issues or something at the rear left. However now it drives so smooth - better than it ever has.

The engine is smoother, everything is better. The car has never been so good.

I dont know what those Nissan guys do but they worked some magic on my car

Thanks Nissan!!

[96RS4V]

Getting back to original topic, have you checked fuel pressure? Maybe fuel pressure regulator?

The steering will go hard when the revs are low as the pump isn't spinning fast enough to build up fluid pressure.

The throttle body has a stop that the butterfly rests against at idle (closed throttle) its on the outside and can be adjusted to raise the idle a bit.

will read up on and check that later today - not entirely sure how i'd go about checking it though (hence the reading)?

weird though, did an ecu-reset and cleaned the AFM sensor on the weekend, was fine for a few days but the stalling is starting to creep back into things as of today. normally the stall would have been about every few km, but managed 90 odd out of it before it died. will do the same again and see how i go - its booked for an AT service and new plugs this week as well.

can't wait for it to be reliable again - hurts seeing the first car i ever loved stalling all the time.

just as an aside though, those AWN warranties don't seem to be worth the paper they're written on.. nothing is replaced until it completely fails and then only with a "servicable" part.

[96RS4V]

well for anyone interested, the problem is seemingly fixed once again. (130k's with not a problem) pulled apart the maf sensor and resoldered every joint i could reach, resealed with high temp silicone. now just need to replace the O2 sensor to fix up the idle mixture ratio issue and run a batch of injector cleaner through and hopefully (fingers crossed) i should be sweet

have picked up a few other things while spending time as a grease-monkey look-a-like and i'll post photos later when i can find them - but the nipple where in other posts i've seen boost guages hooked up to, is this normally just blocked off? i've also got a few non-factory looking wiring changes - not sure if these are just changes due to the dodgy immobiliser install, or something else. going to take it in to c-red tuning when i can and have them give it a once over so i can see how much money i have to spend before i get to doing the fun things like intake, exhaust, suspension and brake upgrades