Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Can someone let me know if there is a price diff between ISO and IS Copper....

Is that to say, if you drive to the snow, once, your car will die?

I occasionally visit skiing resorts....

The ISO kit comes with a valve that you open when the temperature is really cold (but subsequently reduces the benefit of the ISO spacer). It certainly won't kill you car. The main difference is the copper kit doesn't need this valve.

Unless you live in the snow I wouldn't worry about it.

The Motordyne has consistently better reviews, especially the ISO version.

I read that although skunk2 may be easier to install but skunk2 spacer is 5/8" instead of MD which is available in 5/16" or 1/2".

since the skunk2 is higher than 1/2" with the engine cover on it actually rubs the bonnet a little bit... fine if you want to leave the engine cover off but you may get signs of scrubbings on your plastic engine cover.

So to make sure i understand correctly rs73, after the install of the plenum, skun2 or MD, you will be able to place the cover on, but it will scrub?

Or is only an issue with the Skunk2?

I'd like to keep the cover.... but if the trade off is HP, happy to rid it.

The reason I'm going with the ISO Copper version is that it does all the things that the ISO thermal version does but does not need the CCV. Instead it has a copper plating to install on the throttle body. The CCV requires you to cut one of your engine lines to install and if you are going into snowy conditions you need to open the value to let hot air into the throttle body so it doesn't freeze. The copper version with is install and forget. Also means it can be fully removed without leaving any trace behind.

EDIT:

How important is it to install the ccv. i live in an area where it doesn't get that cold. should i install it and leave it closed?

Copper Iso Thermal is a premium set and forget component that can be used in place of the Coolant Control Valve (CCV). It doesn't matter how hot or cold the weather is, you don't have to adjust a valve based on the season or ambient temperatures. Install it and the throttle body remains heated while the plenum continues to remain thermally isolated. Keeping the throttle body heated prevents ice formation on the throttle body butterfly valve when driving in cold weather. If it snows or gets really cold in your area, use the Copper Iso Thermal so your engine can take full advantage of the cold air you are driving in.

Its not necessary to install the CCV but it is better if you do. Iso Thermal does not make HP but it does prevent the loss of it. Its good for about 1-2 HP by preventing excessive plenum heat soak as your engine becomes hot. And yes, you will generally leave the CCV closed. Iso Thermal or Copper Iso Thermal is beneficial no matter how hot or cold it gets in your area.

Edited by Aust350z

Updated List - please contact me if you haven't already.

Melbourne Group Buy @ $375ish - Pick up from maxw3l

1. me - ISO [confirmed]

2. dannyw (SAU) - ISO [confirmed]

3. db350z (350Z - pw350gt on SAU) - ISO [awaiting details]

4. Vai350Z (350Z) - Basic [awaiting details]

5. Aust350Z (350Z) - ISO Copper [confirmed]

6. SkEdY (350Z) - Basic [confirmed]

7. 3fifty (350Z) - ISO Copper [awaiting details]

8. NoImagination (SAU) - ISO [awaiting details]

9. ZTRACK (350Z) - Basic [awaiting details]

Sydney Group Buy @ $375ish - pickup from ???

1. BEE (350Z) - Basic [confirmed]

2. dkc64 (350Z) - ISO Copper [awaiting details]

3. g33k (SAU) - ISO Copper [awaiting details]

4. ??

5. ??

I really want one of these but I cannot see anywhere, other than the manufacturers website, a before and after dyno run. If anyone can show me a 10-12 horse power gain, I'd be in

Cheers

Geoff

lolz.. the group buy is going to end VERY soon, payment are being gathered and order will be put soon, i think..

IF THERE IS really a 10horse power gain, i m guessing some ecu mod on it..

as usual, any mod to reach its full potential, ecu has to be mod/tuned..

anyone can correct me if i m wrong, coz i just started learning all these stuff as well..

I've read a few threads which say otherwise, but cbf digging them up. By most accounts, this is acknowledged as one of the best n/a mods for a 350z/v35.

Anyway we've got enough takers, so up to you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...