Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im new to these forums so im asuming im in the right section if not could a mod move this thred to the right one. im from NS.com and they are aboubroad minded persone gurus with CA's and SR's but not very bright (IMO) on the RB25det motor and if i post this thred on NS they will tell me to come here and ask, so i thought il save abit of time and come here first.

*note these are all future plans as i am currently on my P's

and plan on having a reliable 300kw daily with a few track days every now and then, this thred is focusing on engine so dont tell me about driveline

RB25det (model undecided just know im not geting a neo)

z32 afm

power fc djetro

splitfire coil packs

fmic

discoe potatoe? t3/4?, GT35? or any other u might suggest for what i plan, dont care if its a high mount or a low mount turbo as the engine will be roughly a 2 year project itself (plan on putting engine in when off P's)

264 cams intake and exhaust

remove VCT (if it has it still on)

rods?

gasket?

700cc injectors

fuel pump and reg

oil pump and cooler

and 3'' turbo back

*is the stock throttle body worth boring out or am i beter of buy like a after market 80mm

cant realy think of anything else, i know im probly missing a shat load of parts but its 3am and cant realy think of anything else that i might need.

Edited by ONE-VIA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/
Share on other sites

Welcome... The NS.Com guys are right to send you here...

I think you need to do a lot more searching/reading however, as basically there is nothing 'basic' that hasnt been covered or touched on in fairly good detail when it comes to RB25's and under 300rwkw.

Some threads to get you started

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...kw-t249470.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ai...kw-t242499.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...io-t207931.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...kw-t233792.html

Also have a read of the Dyno Sticky in this section:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

End of the day however it think you should stick with the SR, as your Victorian so there is all sorts of legal issues you'll have to contend with the more you modify, the harder it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4477987
Share on other sites

:) a RB owner telling me to go SR

the CA motor was engineered by nissan and the RB motor was designed off it or other way round cant remember

the SR motor is from a tractor (seriously)

and 300kw@w is a bare minimum i want from that motor and i want it as a daily so need to be bullet proof just not a shot in my pocket

Edited by ONE-VIA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4477991
Share on other sites

:blink: a RB owner telling me to go SR

the CA motor was engineered by nissan and the RB motor was designed off it or other way round cant remember

the SR motor is from a tractor (seriously)

and 300kw@w is a bare minimum i want from that motor and i want it as a daily so need to be bullet proof just not a shot in my pocket

Im Melb also, and im well across legalities after my many different conversions, setups and so on.

SR is simply easier to keep on the street.

Either way, do what you want, ive linked you to the threads you need to read on the topic.

You just need to come up with the $25,000 to get it done now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4478278
Share on other sites

RB25det (model undecided just know im not geting a neo)

z32 afm

power fc djetro

splitfire coil packs

fmic

Z32 + D jetro doesnt work because djetro is speed density (MAFless) and you will need to use a rb26dett PFC djetro if your gonna go that way as there are no rb25 ones.

if 300rwkw is a bare minimum than budget for a full rebuild, cams arnt necessary.

and to be honest if you deadset on a RB conversion id just go straight to the RB26 as it would be cheaper in the long run to get the power your after.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4478470
Share on other sites

Im Melb also, and im well across legalities after my many different conversions, setups and so on.

SR is simply easier to keep on the street.

Either way, do what you want, ive linked you to the threads you need to read on the topic.

You just need to come up with the $25,000 to get it done now.

Nismoid.... just wondering, what are the legality issues regarding a rb26DETT (from a 33GTR) into a 33 GTSt. Is it ok if the motor is newer than the age of the body its going into or do you need engineering certificates?

Was discussing this with my mate the other day but neither of us was sure

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4479442
Share on other sites

300kw with reliability from an SR Ash, we all know thats going to be pretty street un-friendly, track un-friendly and pocket draining.

Why would you want more than 300 anyway? In a pissy little Silvia its heaps of power. Especially for drift if thats what you mean about track days.

A Standard RB25 with cams and a 3071R would be plenty. You dont need a huge peak figure, midrange is what you want for street and drift.

Be a man and go the conversion, maybe consider an Engineers Certificate, if you dont have the money prepare for the car to be taken off the road.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4480015
Share on other sites

Nismoid.... just wondering, what are the legality issues regarding a rb26DETT (from a 33GTR) into a 33 GTSt. Is it ok if the motor is newer than the age of the body its going into or do you need engineering certificates?

Was discussing this with my mate the other day but neither of us was sure

Ive got a RB26 in my HR31 - its very easy, easier in a GTS-t actually than my car (due to brakes, gearboxes etc etc, all of which i have upgraded, but if i didnt it would have been a no-no).

RB26 for a R33 is a good choice, but not one for the person on a budget... RB26's cost money if you chase power, same as RB25's i guess but to keep a RB26 legal-ish and chase power is far easier hence you can make more and overall costs more :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4480601
Share on other sites

300kw with reliability from an SR Ash, we all know thats going to be pretty street un-friendly, track un-friendly and pocket draining.

Why would you want more than 300 anyway? In a pissy little Silvia its heaps of power. Especially for drift if thats what you mean about track days.

Well thats what i kinda meant, built a nice 250rwkw SR, light balanced car - love

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4480717
Share on other sites

Making 300kw+ from an rb with mods like an aftermarket ecu, fuel system, gt35, cams, coils ect,ect is a walk in the park throw in a set of rods and pistons and it becomes relaible, honestly though if i only wanted 'street' power i wouldn't want any more than say 250rwkw it is plenty for the street..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261127-build-up-plans/#findComment-4480863
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...