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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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yer those camera's stand out pretty easy.

The song "theres a hole in my bucket" come to mind when i have pulled my car apart. Got the drivers side cleaned up and ready for metal to be cut out and new stuff welded in, passengers side is worse. This will take all week

yer those camera's stand out pretty easy.

The song "theres a hole in my bucket" come to mind when i have pulled my car apart. Got the drivers side cleaned up and ready for metal to be cut out and new stuff welded in, passengers side is worse. This will take all week

is it an expensive exercise ?

Hahaha no thanks

Anyone have ideas for how to make a pressure tester for my piping?

I'm thinking PVC end cap, drill small hole in side, insert bike tyre air screw part, seal around the edges and hook up to compressor.

Replace AFM with this item and listen for leaks in piping??

Will PVC withstand 10psi?

It will work, i have one that I run off my compressor. Just be careful not to over boost it though.

Less likely with a pushbike pump thaan a compressor but meh!

  • Nope 1

Please note that A J Wyllie Bridge on Gympie Road, Petrie is currently closed to traffic in both directions. An alternative route is available via Youngs Crossing Road, Petrie.

Advice has been received from Main Roads that the lower bridge may be opened late this afternoon. This will carry one lane of traffic in each direction. They have also provided advice that the high (southbound) bridge will be closed for some weeks due to extensive damage.

Weeks! FFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Time to find an alternative route to work...

It will work, i have one that I run off my compressor. Just be careful not to over boost it though.

Less likely with a pushbike pump thaan a compressor but meh!

Hahahahaha sweet... Yeah haven't decided if I'll use compressor or bike pump yet.

How did you block off the throttle? I only want to pressurise from air intake -> intake plenum (but not including the plenum)

Hahahahaha sweet... Yeah haven't decided if I'll use compressor or bike pump yet.

How did you block off the throttle? I only want to pressurise from air intake -> intake plenum (but not including the plenum)

I didnt block off the throttle.I just fit my pipe at the air intake then pressurise the whole system. Just rotate your engine till you find the sopt that holds pressure and pump away willis.

  • Nope 1

I didnt block off the throttle.I just fit my pipe at the air intake then pressurise the whole system. Just rotate your engine till you find the sopt that holds pressure and pump away willis.

Uhhh........ please explain this? :)

Drivers side is almost finished, welding in shorts and singlet is fun, except for when you get sparks and burn a couple little holes in your arm. Hopefully will have the passengers side started tomorrow so i can get the car running again before thursday night

So it seems that big thick sound proofing/ heatsheild mat that sits on the fire wall doesn't like to be welded or to be near welding. Just had a minor fire

Hey Noel, you wouldn't have any RB25 upgrade injectors you want to get rid of would ya?

i lost track earlier, what turbs did you end up going with?

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  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
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