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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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agreed, love those events in a game...but in IRL, i dont think i'd have the balls to even try.

BOZ! did you get your car back yet?

and a simple spark plug question for one and all. the iridiums that are in my car are heat 6 gap 1.1. should i stick with this with the new plugs (prob just coppers)

or go down to a 0.8 gap? my 5000rpm+ stutter is getting worse :( just wondering if it might just be the gap?....or the distance driven with them in.

I'd take water over flipping and fire any day of the week. Unless you have a VERY difficult car to get out of I'd say your chances of survival are higher in a splashdown, more time to react. Both are terrifying situations however.

Upside down, on fire and in the water however...

The one that always has me on edge even watching are the crazy cliff drops on the outside of many European Tarmac rally's or events like Pikes Peak. That's a damn long way to fall with nothing but skill stopping you going over.

and on that topic. i just downloaded a Jeremy Clarkson DVD collection. the first one is Motorsport Mayhem from '99 and i just watched a corolla drive straight down a cliff and end up upside down in water.

No car yet but it must be actually done (or so close it doesn't matter) as Just Car contacted me to pay the excess. Once the payment clears I'm hoping she'll be back in my hands :)

On the topic of spark plugs, I gapped down to 0.8mm on my last spark plug change (about 10,000km ago, they are due for another change soon) and it helped no end. Once I get my baby back she'll be getting an oil change and new plugs straight up, i actually have a bit of space to work on her now, just need to actually buy some axel stands and a jack :P

How much boost you running bodo?

just stock boost, with the low boost bypass job.

copper sparkplugs, smaller gaps, and replace them while doing oil change. costs less than fancy plugs and does the job just fine.

yeah im gonna go coppers, the iridiums do save alot of time as the plugs aren't a 5 min job with standard pipe work, and 5000km was every second month the last few years (thankfully that is no more)

the 6 heat range should be fine then i assume?

Anybody aware of any cheap standard skyline seats for sale? Need some till my fixed back gets here

i got a set of 34 seats cheap at a place called the Panel house in slacks creek, they had all types and sizes there for relatively cheap. my clean pair of 34 seats only cost me about $150

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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