Freshly Rebuilt Engine.. Oil Use

[GTAAAH]

Yeh first 1000km's i wasn't allowed to take it into the rev range at all, at 1500 ( i think it was) they changed out the run in oil and put shell helix in and thats what it's running atm

[N1GTR]

What exactly do you define as "rev range"?

[GTAAAH]

err, i actually cant remember what it was, for the first 1000 km's i didnt take it much over 3.5k, think it was 5k .. i can't remember what the limit was for the first 500km's though, at 500 it had the head bolts retorqued, i only drove it on the freeway and up and down hills up to the 500 mark.. From memory he said don't baby it too much but dont drive it hard

Edited March 18, 2009 by GTAAAH

[femno]

Yeah my engine used to use oil when it was new, its all good now, its expected that a new engine will use some oil at least.

Castrol Edge Sport 10w60 (I think) is very good oil.

[R31Nismoid]

err, i actually cant remember what it was, for the first 1000 km's i didnt take it much over 3.5k, think it was 5k .. i can't remember what the limit was for the first 500km's though, at 500 it had the head bolts retorqued, i only drove it on the freeway and up and down hills up to the 500 mark.. From memory he said don't baby it too much but dont drive it hard

Mine saw 8,000rpm on the dyno after the rings were bed in

Nothing wrong with it currently.

Running in - in my view - is a myth

And Edge 10/60 for mine too!

[femno]

Haha yeah I drove mine half an hour to get it tuned after I first started it, the next day I picked it up with full power figure of 326!

Its all in the build!

[R33GTRKid]

the first 20 mins are the most important for the rings to bed in

[Turbz RB-25]

Guys,

I just had my RB25/30 build occur,

Can you fellas please recommend what exact engine break in oil to use?

1) 0 - 500km - Which oil?

2) 500 - 1000km - which oil?

3) 1000 - what ever - which oil?

4) when I change oil at the above intervals, do I have to change the oil filter too?

5) When can I start using full synthetic oil?

My builder advised to bed the rings in on the dyno with a few runs, then I have to drive it for 500km not reving it past 5k with low boost. After that, he said to bring it back to the shop, and he will conduct the final tune.

So I can only assume that my builder wants to use some sort of break in oil for the first 500km, and then put in synthetic oil for the final tune, does this sound right to you guys?

Sorry for all the questions, I had a look around on many forums but I still couldn't find an answer to my questions

Cheers fellas.

[R31Nismoid]

1) 2) 3) Edge 10/60

4) Yes change the filter, never hurts!

5) From the start i believe is how mine was...

Once the rings are bed in (first 20mins, on dyno) then there isnt a lot more too it.

But look - at the end of the day go with what your engine builder says.

They built it - if you want any kind of warranty/replacement and so on your best to follow his instruction so if something lets go you cannot be blamed for using unspecified oils and so on.

Better yet take it back to them for the oil changes until thier with varying rpm, rpm limits and whatever else that thier mystical procedure they come up with dictates.

That way all you amount too is driving it

[Angus Smart]

Read thru this.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

As for oils

Mineral oil for the first 500 - 1000 km's perhaps even less!

everyone seems to have their own ideas.

[Turbz RB-25]

1) 2) 3) Edge 10/60

4) Yes change the filter, never hurts!

5) From the start i believe is how mine was...

Once the rings are bed in (first 20mins, on dyno) then there isnt a lot more too it.

But look - at the end of the day go with what your engine builder says.

They built it - if you want any kind of warranty/replacement and so on your best to follow his instruction so if something lets go you cannot be blamed for using unspecified oils and so on.

Better yet take it back to them for the oil changes until thier with varying rpm, rpm limits and whatever else that thier mystical procedure they come up with dictates.

That way all you amount too is driving it

Ok, so assume my engine is in, everything is done and the car is ready to be turned on:

1) Should the engine be left running by itself at idle (i.e. 1000 rpm) once turned on to warm up, also how long; or

2) Should you rev and hold the engine at a particular RPM, also, for how long?

3) Should the car then immediately be put on the dyno for a few runs to bed in the rings?

Cheers

[R31Nismoid]

Talk to your engine builder dude, like i said, whatever they specify

[Turbz RB-25]

Talk to your engine builder dude, like i said, whatever they specify

I'd like to, but I noticed he gets the shits when I ask him specifics, almost as though I am doubting his ability to break in an engine.... Makes me feel bad, that's why I am asking you guys...

[Tangles]

Read thru this.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

As for oils

Mineral oil for the first 500 - 1000 km's perhaps even less!

everyone seems to have their own ideas.

yup ^^

excellent advice in that webpage, followed it (mostly - some builders advice / some mototuneusa advice) when I ran-in my race-spec rebuilt CBR Fireblade

read this web page, it explains a lot, in words / details you can easily grasp and understand the principles

[R31Nismoid]

I'd like to, but I noticed he gets the shits when I ask him specifics, almost as though I am doubting his ability to break in an engine.... Makes me feel bad, that's why I am asking you guys...

Like i said earlier - dont question him. Do what he says.

Why even go into it with him?

Just do what he thinks is best for his motor and go with that instruction so you dont have issues later if something fails or whatever and he tries to pin the tail on you because you've been asking questions etc etc possibly alluding to the fact you didnt follow his requirements or whatever else that could just make headaches.

Do what he says, dont argue, dont question. He built it, his rules.

If you built it, you could follow another set

[STATUS]

Mine saw 8,000rpm on the dyno after the rings were bed in

Nothing wrong with it currently.

Running in - in my view - is a myth

And Edge 10/60 for mine too!

spot on, the age of poor machining ended years ago. If your using the correct clearances and a decent machine shop running in is mearly a matter of hours not 1000's of kms.

I tell all my customers for whom ive built engines: DRIVE IT NORMALY but dont THRASH it or drive interstate ie no long steady drives and no drag racing. The best thing to do is map out a day hill run (or great ocean road etc).

Edited March 19, 2009 by URAS

[bozodos]

Interesting that you guys use both a 10w60 oil and Castrol EDGE, due to the bollocking it gets in the oil thread, thats the same grade a mate runs in his NEO as 'summer oil' lol, why not 5w30 especially on a new motor?

Interesting reading about the whole breaking in procedure, I'd love to see some concrete results about that 'break in' method.

[TriniGT]

Isn't it recommended to have a car tuned immediately after a rebuild, leaving it untuned and leaving the mixture rich can cause rings to not seat properly and inevitably lots of burnt oil from blowby?

[R31Nismoid]

^ well i ran mine around on the stock ECU, 250rwkw...

Interesting that you guys use both a 10w60 oil and Castrol EDGE, due to the bollocking it gets in the oil thread, thats the same grade a mate runs in his NEO as 'summer oil' lol, why not 5w30 especially on a new motor?

Interesting reading about the whole breaking in procedure, I'd love to see some concrete results about that 'break in' method.

Meh, i care not for the bollocking

As i think ive said half a dozen times - Engine builder says "x", thats how it goes. They say Edge 10/60 is going in, thats whats going in.

As for concrete results, what more do you want... half the results in the RB26 dyno thread have probably been done in that manner (or similar/varied of the link)

Mine being one of them (similar method i was informed)... Bed the rings, and then i had a phone call about an hour later, 250rwkw @ 1bar/stock ECU

My motor is still a-ok, as are most of the others. Some might have died, but that would be more related to someting else rather than the rings being set.

[bozodos]

Oh very interesting to hear, I've not heard of any engine builders around here using that method, especially with synthetic and not a mineral oil, I wasn't sure if it was a tried and true thing or one of those things that was done by one or two people and then argued on the forum as an opinion point!

Fair enough to go on what your builder says, most of my mates use EDGE and i've seen an RB30 with just under 500 000km unopened, with Castrol synthetics used nearly its entire life (mind you thats also a motor which wasn't thrashed). Thought that it may have had a detrimental effect when the car's being driven to its potential, due to breakdown of stabilising additives in the oil (due to it apparently being a hydrocrack derivative and not a 'true', synthetic.