Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry guys, so many questions..........

GT1 first , http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/

We use them (as Performance Metalcraft) for fabrication when our team fabricator is too busy or away. They do top work.

Rev210, they have Tomei camshafts in stock. Sorry my cattledog is at work.

Inasnt, yep the Tomei Poncams are designed to work with VVT. Don't bother with an adjustable exhaust pulley they are pretty much spot on standard, spend the money on something else.

Hope I answered everbody

Rev - I think this is the mildest:

Tomei Cams 256 duration and 8.5mm lift compared to standard 240and 7.8mm lift

That's what I am putting in my car during re-build

YEs, I understand they work with the std hydro lifters - I'm not changing mine anyways - Unless the head people do that without me knowing about it.

Price - Well, I think I'm paying a bit more than normal - but I'm also getting a package deal and make up for it on other things - So you should be able to get better then $1200-1300 - Cheaper if you import yourself (But not quicker) you pay a premium for off the shelf stock on Oz......

Hi INASNT, if you mean "headwork" as in clearancing to fit the camshafts (not porting) then duration is basically irrelevant, lift is the issue. When we get the lift over 9 mm, we die grind the head to clear the lobes. Pretty simple, you can do it in the car as long as you clean up properly afterwards.

So to answer your question we have run 292 @ 9 mm without "headwork". We also have run 264 @ 10.5 mm and done headwork.

To answer the second question, based on my personal experience;

240 is standard GTST

248 is standard GTR

256 is a good mild street upgrade, go for 9 mm lift

264 is a good combo (street, track, circuit) go for 10 mm lift

272 is a good for circuit work at 10.5 mm lift

Anything more than that requires a big turbo/turbos to use it, to get the best a close ratio gearset or an auto would be my suggestion.

There are plenty of people running around with more than the above, but they don't seem to keep the car very long. They get there jollies from the doing (or the bragging) rather than the driving.

Hope that helps

  • 5 months later...

Hey guys

does anyone know how a HKS step 1 (I think they're 256 whoops I meant 264) exhaust camshafts would go with the standard inlet Camshaft?

being step1 I heard they're ok for on the street, but would they work with standard inlet cams?

Also any ideas where I could get the stock exhaust Cams?

Im having no luck here in WA

I'm confused, I have seen 256, 260 and 264 described as "Step 1". Plus I have 264 described as "Step 2". So I just call them 256, 260 or 264, "Step" is a useless term.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...