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My R33 Gts25T v. 2000 R8 Clubsport???


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r8 will do a high 13s so u gotta do better then that to beat him.. and for ur car costing $14,500 and his costing $38,000

u can put a 13bt in a old 1970s corolla for under 8k, and it'd rape a r33 as well as a r8 ..... has nothign to do with money.. u cant compare the 2 cars they r so diffrent.. marketed for diffrent groups in society...

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Guest Robo's

Zdenko.. An auto R8 will not do high 13's, low 14's for sure, best i have seen in an auto is mid 13's, thats with low gears, intake, exhaust, and computer mods.

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well, i can tell you that the cv8 monaro at about 230kw i think gets flogged by an R33.

My mates R33 had turbo back exhaust and pod filter and still easily had the race... now he has an EVC with 12psi and it wouldnt even come close.

i reckon u should run on about 10psi first and see if you beat him... then up it to about 13psi and really flog him... if he still isnt crying go for a run at 15psi and really kick him :(

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i agree.... I work with this bloke, so if you guys got the impression that he was a good friend it would be wrong.... the guy is a loser and deserves to have his new toy belittled in front of a nice big crowd so he cant deny the shittness of his HSV

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Grey Skys - that's right. If your a good driver you'll do better times with the traction control off.

Apparently the best acceleration occurs with about 10% slip (we're talking dry road/good conditions). But more than this and the acceleration drops off very fast - it's hard to stay on/around this amount of slip.

J

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Yeah traction control from my understanding is just the car telling u "no" to the accelerator, or applying the brakes (and if it's advanced enough, only the specific brakes) really quickly on/off to stop the wheels spinning. So prob not the best thing.

And zdenko, there is no point saying u can by a 1970's bomb and just put a rotary in, cos that isn't what the car came with in the first place! It's 1 complete factory car, vs another factory car. Saying u can buy this shell car and drop some complete foreign engine into it, doesn't have much to do with a R33 vs an R8.

cheers.

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The Wheels and Motor timing equipment is SLOW if anything. Like what Rob said, they're also carrying a full tank of fuel and a passenger plus all the Correvit/satalite gear.]

From my own experience, High 13s if he can drive, mid 14s if he can't. Any slower than that and there's something wrong.

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When will the "My R33 against his Commonwhore" end ?

Anyway, I'd say you'd give him a run for his money for sure, even if he wins by 0.1sec it still proves your car is better....

He paid $35g and you paid $14k, and you car is 10years old!

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Guest shvelo

i have a R33 II and i raced a SS Gen 111. he bet me by half a car. and that was just with 7 psi, exhaust and pod. now boosted to 13 psi and killed him. you should get him but he will get you out the hole.

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It will be at Calder park one friday night.... dont know exacly when we have to organise that shit... and scrape together the $55 competitor fee, remember i just got my car and am still trying to afford insurance, and he just spent $35g so he will never have spare cash again :D anyone want to give me $10,000 so i can make my car really fast...... words like hi-flow, Power FC, and front mount intercooler come to mind..... money is my only obstacle..

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im with the Skyline on this one,

Depends fully on the way you drive the car too,

But with good launch,

Personally i think youll pull away at the start quite comfortably then when the R8 heavy monster gets moving it will be real close.

Be sure you to post results, cant build up thread like this then not conclude! :D

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V8's have most of their grunt down low. If they can't beat you off the line then you should be able to pull away as the revs climb. I've done it with a Commodore in the street and the GTR's and Sierras did it to the Commodores at Bathurst on Conrod straight.

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