Jump to content
SAU Community

Very Very Worried My Fresh Engine Is Not Right

Italiazr1

By Italiazr1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Condensate in catch cans is not surprising, quite common.

Easy thing to do is get a clean oil pan, remove the drain plug and see exactly how much oil comes out and what is in the oil.

Get some fresh Castrol Edge 10W60 and throw 4.5L in there. Turn the engine over, make sure there are no noises, you have strong oil pressure etc then shut the engine down.

Then go get new clear hose for your catch can, remove and clean the catch can then re-install with new clear hose.

Then go do your normal day to day driving but dont thrash it. Just drive the thing normally under some load and see what the oil pressure is doing, you lines to the catch can and the level of oil n the sump and catch can.

Dont panic, just be methodical about what it is you are doing. Odds are the miss is fine and not related. Lazy coil pack, faulty igniter or perhaps normal. My thing has a very small miss at idle its no biggie.

But i have never lost a sump of oil before.

Real silly question but when checing the oil were yo doing it in good light. I mean are you sure the dip stick wa going all the way in up to its shoulder when you were checkign it? Either way dumping the oil will soon confirm how much is in there

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i just topped it up today with roughly about 2.5lt worth of oil so its gone through that amount in about 4500kms

but i have driven it fairly hard???

what do you guys think?

the mechanic said he will do a leak down test to show me but he said he is not worried at all

he said "dont worry you have forgies and everything"

he said he was more worried about the last time i brought it to him.....

cause my fuel reg shit itself he put it on the dyno and it was leaning out

he backed it off straight away and fixed it but he said hopefully it will be all sweet???

i wish i knew more about this crap mechanics is not my specialty

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
whats this about the dipstick????

should i get a longer one or is that some joke???

cause its not so funny when you just spent 15k on mostly the engine

blow by on a street car should be nearly zero, the bigger the hp the bigger the ring gap etc so some blow by is inevitable but on a streeter it should not breath.

if you do a lot of stop start driving condesation is also inevitable in the catch can.

Edited by URAS
VSPEC-Boy Contributor

VSPEC-Boy

Posted
Posted (edited)

I assume that your rebuild included forged pistons? If this is the case it is quite normal to use/burn more oil than a standard RB20.

Although this also means you need to check our oil level regularly too. At least once a week or whenever you fill up at the station and top up accordingly.

Sounds like you should be fine, but as others have suggested, get a compression test done, for piece of mind.

Good Luck mate.

Edited by VSPEC-Boy
Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys it probably is nothing hopefully..........

and yeah roy i did check it with a flood light on in my garage a few times even burnt my arm on the floody

the miss in my car is intermittent it sort of happens on second startup when car is warm

sometimes on first start when car is warm

but sometimes not at all??

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well the car is going back to the mechanic anyway on tuesday/wednesday he finally got my wastegate spring

and now he can finish off my tune

and fix the rest of the problems now until then i suppose ill just keep praying heaps and checking oil

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if this motor blows im buying a stock V8 even though most guys on here will hate me for saying it

as a stock car the power and low down torque is good im sick of head aches when you got your own house money is hard to come by just to keep the toy running

i love turbo's but yeah shit does go wrong alot and often

but i must admit i love the look on a comi drivers face when you fly past him partly sideways in a drag

and before he has tried to race you he's thinking hahahaha its an r32 ill chomp him easy

i wanna get a sticker on the back of my car saying.

"YEAH AND ITS ONLY A 2 LITRE"

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
if it aint been checked for oil, or been maintained - then of course there is !!

Again, nothing to do with it if the motor is build right.

Maintained or not isn't the issue here far as I see it. Simply because you don't mince 2.5ltrs of oil on a very fresh motor if its put together right

That's not to say the turbo isn't stuffed and letting oil pass of course.

You could also look @ a crack somewhere, but there is no oil in the water, so that cant be it.

Only other option is it wasn't filled right @ last service... and I would cry if that was the case because running around 2.5ltrs down for a reasonable set of kms (more than out the workshop door) isnt good

Italiazr1 Proficient

Italiazr1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Again, nothing to do with it if the motor is build right.

Maintained or not isn't the issue here far as I see it. Simply because you don't mince 2.5ltrs of oil on a very fresh motor if its put together right

That's not to say the turbo isn't stuffed and letting oil pass of course.

You could also look @ a crack somewhere, but there is no oil in the water, so that cant be it.

Only other option is it wasn't filled right @ last service... and I would cry if that was the case because running around 2.5ltrs down for a reasonable set of kms (more than out the workshop door) isnt good

yep you have it spot on there bud....

its not like i havent maintained it i just didnt think it would be that low after 4500km

when in the first 5000km it did it seemed to be fine everytime i checked it

anyway it never lost comlete compression lowest it was running was 2kg per m2

but that was enough to have no oil on the end of the dipstick

i always thought if it was that low the oil light would come on anyhow obviously i was wrong and now i know this

CRoNic... Grand Master

CRoNic...

Posted
Posted
whats this about the dipstick????

should i get a longer one or is that some joke???

cause its not so funny when you just spent 15k on mostly the engine

I could have had a RB26 built with big-brand everything for that amount of money...

Yet you chose to blow 15k on a RB20?!

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

So the mechanic put it on the dyno when you took it back and it was leaning out straight away with a bad reg yes?

and prior to this you where driving the car pretty hard?

That's not a particularly good thing, especially on a new build. I would be very suprised if it has not sustained some sort of damage, misfire is probably caused by burnt plugs running on poor afr. Did he replace the plugs after the next run with the reg issue fixed?

As others have mentioned I would be doing a leak down test straight away. I thought rb30 twin cam conv first too when you mentioned nothing on the dipstick lol.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

just chucking 2.5 litres of oil in there is a bad idea and a waste of time and money. and it tells you nothing.

do it properly and actually discover if there is a problem. troy has told you how to do it. get a clean oil drip tray and drain ALL the oil. measure how much comes out, and what state it's in. then give it a nice 4.5l of new oil and a new filter. and do what he said about cleaning the catch tank and lines and using a clear line from the breathers to the can. why ask people here for advice if you don't plan on taking it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...