Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you look after it, there is no reason it cant do many 100's of 1000's in my eyes.

If you don't chase power, they should be very very reliable.

The only issue's long term i know about are electrics with Nissans... things like coils, looms, Crank Angle Sensor, AFM's and so on... all things like that tend to fail.

If you replace them with a 2nd hand item, then expect it to happen again, and again :P

An engine is an engine, regardless what it is.

Build quality, lubrication used, how the engine is driven, what power it is pushing out, how often it is serviced, climate, etc. You get my point.

A car can last 1,000,000km if it is treated correctly. However certain things might fail and need replacing. Most parts will have to be replaced during the life of the car, so what particular part are we talking about.

There really is no answer to this thread and therefore is entirely pointless.

Kind of like asking what age shall i live to.

i agree to this 100%.

remember its the parts that fail not the car.. maybe you should think about how long certain parts will last? if you have an engine change every 100,000 ks your car will last forever.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...