Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i'm trying to work out what I need. I have a set of butchered 34 xenons wich dont work.

Just wondering the housing on the right hand side has d2r 35w, hir1 65w printed on top. The left housing has h1 55w,hir1 engraved over top of the print. Fairly sure one has had the compliance chop and one hasnt considering one missing ballast. can anyone recommend wich kit to order to get these lights to a near factory result.

sorry if i have missed something obvious, just a little confused :D !

If the headlights are out of the car pull the covers off and have a look at where the bulb go in on both of the headlights look at the one with d2r on it then the other ona with the h1 and there might be a plate in the h1 headlight that can pop out and a d2r bulb will fit. Have a look in the tutorial and you will see the part im on about. Get the d2r bulbs.

Has anybody here purchased the 8000 one yet? If so, can u post up pics, still undecided whether i wanna go 6000 or 8000

I just fitted 8000k bulbs to my car ill take a photo when i get a chance and post it up.

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

seeing nytskys pics almost made me change my mind! im glad i saw nagas pic, dont want them to stick out like dogs balls, just need something brighter as the factory low beam is shithouse at night time and highbeam lights up the whole fkn street haha

As this GB will be ending soon i have some surplus kits that need to go ASAP, which include:

1x PHILIPS H11 4300k ($225 Delivered)

1x PHILIPS H7 4300k ($225 Delivered)

1x PHILIPS H4 Bi-Xenon 4300k ($299 Delivered)

1x PHILIPS D2S 6000k ($225 Delivered)

Price can be slightly negotiable for serious buyers.

heres some of my 6000k install

20090520_7146-e.jpg]

Damn dude, thats some nice photography!

Dave, you havn't seen any way to hook up two sets of HID's to the same ballast have you? I really want to go something hardcore blue in the foglights but the problem is mounting another set of ballasts somewhere :cheers:

I have 8000K halogen bulbs in there at the moment, but i seriously doubt they are 8000k since my 6000k HID's are more blue.

I have recently been informed by the supplier that H3C are only available in the Helligkeit HID kits.

Hi mate,

having a few concerns before installing the Bosch "H3C" kit you sent me.

Firstly the box claims to be made in germany but the package was posted in china.

Secondly the english in the instruction manual is pretty poor and the "C" in "H3C" is hand written in pen.

Thirdly the adapter to connect the existing plug in the headlight to the ballast is missing (circled in red in the diagram below)

ii_hid2.jpg

and lastly the distance between the connector plate on the globe and the globe itself is different to the H3C globes in my car already which i assume matters in projector style headlights.

I'm sure i could easily modify my setup to match, but before i do i want to ensure that i've got the correct thing.

I'd rather not modify it since i would like to have the option of returning to the original setup in the future.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...