Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Turbocharger modifications?

iswinkels

By iswinkels,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

iswinkels Rookie

iswinkels

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

In a recent fast fours tech tips mag there was an article that covered modification for the standard R33 roller bearing turbo.

The article outlined a modification that changed the ceramic wheel for a modified T3 wheel.

Does anyone know who does this kind of work, and perhaps have any idea of what it costs?

Cheers,

Ian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26268-r33-turbocharger-modifications/
Share on other sites
Hicks Mentor

Hicks

Posted
Posted

Hey,

They're called 'hi flows'. Basically they take your stock turbo, throw away the wheels and compressor cover. They put a t04 comp cover on with a new steel wheel, machine out the turbine housing to fit a bigger steel wheel and bolt it back up to the stock manifold and dump pipe. They usually cost between 1500-2100 depending on who does the work and what components they use. Better off to buy a new t3/t04 turbo that bolts up, because the stock turbine housing is small, even after machining.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      No no, sorry I think I made you misunderstand. I have this Tee as well as the lines that go from there. What I am missing is the banjo bolt that connects this line (OEM turbo oil supply line) To this hole, this line is mounted on the turbo and reaches around it so you have easy access the oil and water supply being rerouted to this dual banjo port in the front. like this
    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Nothing at the moment as previously there was a crappy braided line going from engine block directly to the turbo. I have bought a used OEM hardline for the turbo oil supply, which goes from the engine block to the marked hole. I don't have any of the OEM banjo bolts for oil except the one at the block.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This is the tee No specs on the page I grabbed it from, out of stock there anyway. But it kinda looks like a 1mm pitch. Would not think it's going to be 0.75mm pitch.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See above.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, I'm with you now. The outlet of the tee that is banjo'd into the block. Dunno what it is, will have a scratch around. The M11 question is.....messy. The minor diameter of an M11x1.0 male thread is 9.917mm. This is smaller than the minor diameter of a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 10.08mm). The M11 major is 11mm. That's smaller than the major on a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 0.4375" or 11.1mm) so an M11x1 bolt should pass on the major side. The pitch of a -24 thread is 1.058mm, which is really close to the M11x1, so it should go in at least several turns. I would expect M11x1 to be loose in a 7/16"-24 UNS, at least until enough thread are engaged to make it stop screwing in, if that can happen. Probably wouldn't happen on such a short bolt as you're looking at on the oil tee. Keep in mind that 7/16"-24 is NOT a standard/typical 7/16" thread. Standard is 20. That's the UNF or fine thread. -24 is really fine. I imagine that Garrett chose -24 for the turbo housing oil inlet to get the number of threads engaged up. I would not expect Nissan to have an imperial (UNF, etc) thread on that tee. I would expect it to be metric (if it is a bolt thread) or BSP (actually the Japanese equivalent of BSP) if it is a pipe thread. Given that it's a banjo, it's going to be a bolt thread. If it looks like an 11mm will go in there, then 11mm seems likely. It is very possible that some clown has stuffed that thread by trying to jam some imperial "near equivalent" into it, perhaps with those hoses of yours. Got verniers? Measure up the threads on the hoses.
×
×
  • Create New...