Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I am on of the only people in the NT that has a greddy emu. No one has experience with them here so does anyone have base Airflow maps for the Greddy pressure sensor, or do i need to collect the data on a dyno like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...p;hl=greddy+emu thread suggests.

I havent been able to drive my car for a while, so if anyone can help it would be great.

My car is:

1992 r32 GTS-t Auto - no mods

Thanks in Advance

Greg

(Also i am having issues with the car shifting from 850 - 1250 rpm when idling and the car running too rich, Do i just need a tune?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/
Share on other sites

Hi all

I am on of the only people in the NT that has a greddy emu. No one has experience with them here so does anyone have base Airflow maps for the Greddy pressure sensor, or do i need to collect the data on a dyno like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...p;hl=greddy+emu thread suggests.

I havent been able to drive my car for a while, so if anyone can help it would be great.

My car is:

1992 r32 GTS-t Auto - no mods

Thanks in Advance

Greg

(Also i am having issues with the car shifting from 850 - 1250 rpm when idling and the car running too rich, Do i just need a tune?)

If your maps are all at 0 adjustments then you shouldnt have a problem. download and run the file below, its got 0 adjustments and is set up for your rb20. as long as you've wired in the EMU right it should work 100%. I've also set up data logging so you can look at all of the right parameters when diagnosing problems.

r32_r34_map_no_adj.zip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4503266
Share on other sites

If your maps are all at 0 adjustments then you shouldnt have a problem. download and run the file below, its got 0 adjustments and is set up for your rb20. as long as you've wired in the EMU right it should work 100%. I've also set up data logging so you can look at all of the right parameters when diagnosing problems.

r32_r34_map_no_adj.zip

Cheers, i was beginning to think no one used the emu

I'll see how it goes, i had trouble wiring it up initially and had to take it to one of the tuners here, apparently the injector connections were back to front someone had messed with the factory computer loom. He said that all of the setting were set to zero and hence i should be able to drive it around,

However....

Right now when you depress the accelerator there is a delay before the engine kicks in and at idle it pulses from 850 to 1250 rpm.

Furthermore once when i was driving it after it was installed, if i depressed the accelerator the car spluttered and sounded like it was going to stall, i then pulled over and restarted and it was fine?

Once again Thanks for your response, i appreciate it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4503658
Share on other sites

i used an emu for around a year, its a good piece of kit but it can definitely be a headache if not wired in properly. check if the map i put up fixes your problem, if not its possible its a wiring issue or even your jumper settings on the board of the EMU are wrong. also if it doesnt help i'd need a bit more info on whats happening to be able to help you out.

do you know how to read a data log properly to find faults?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4504402
Share on other sites

Hi

I personally have not interfaced the the emu, i am a little worried about stuffing up my engine. So on Tuesday i am taking it to a tuner to have a look at it however since he has not had experience with the greddy emanage ultimate, i have to find all this stuff out myself.

So, so far i need to:

Open your file and update the emu,

Check the wiring and jumper settings,

Use the Data logger to find issues,

Most tuners in the territory are used to powerfc's, haltech's or Wolf3D's and since i dont know how to tune and have an automatic, i have to decypher the emu for the tuner i use.

Thanks,

Greg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4504595
Share on other sites

yeah, all of my tuning was vs. psi.

plug in the sensor, set up the OPTION 1 or OPTION 2 (the 2 expansion ports on the front) to whichever the sensor is plugged into, plumb it into your plenum then off you go. its all in the manual.

i actually sold off all of my emanage stuff a few weeks ago including the pressure sensor and plug to input 5v from an A/F gauge.

you need to get yourself a laptop with the manage software and have a play with it yourself, especially when you're the one that is doing the research for your tuner. by the time i was getting someone to tune my car the first time i was explaining the features and helping with the tune. also helps if you have a minor problem and all it takes is a few clicks of the mouse to sort out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4505407
Share on other sites

Hi,

What unit do i need to use to utilise the pressure sensor?

Data Sampling Map

Do i use, Throttle Position, Airflow Hotwire, Greddy Pressure sensor, Relative Pressure or Charge efficiency.

Then i need to sample the data, Copy the data then paste that to airflow output map?

Is That correct?

Cheers

Greg

Edited by R32_R34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/262957-r32-greddy-emu/#findComment-4505779
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...