Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Its time for me to start looking at upgrading my braking so thought id start with the small things first and move my way up, and was wondering if I can grab some info on what to use and weather the plan I have is the right one or not.

Now I am planning on hitting the track but only for fun nothing to serious so I don’t need anything hardcore like what some of the boys here are running as I am planning on upgrading to a GTR in the next year or 2.

So at the moment under heavy breaking I get vibration so that would be the rotors that has uneven wear??? so instead of getting these machined id get them upgraded. Now does it matter if I go cross drilled or slotted rotors or get one that’s cross drilled and slotted??? Not really sure which one is better or which one would suit my needs better.

At the same time ill be upgrading my pads to bendix ultimates or if anyone could suggest anything better.

After that will be upgrading brake lines and will be fitting GTR brembos and will do a full flush of the brake fluid. Would the rotors I upgrade to be suitable for the brembos? Or will I need a different size rotor for the brembos?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263299-brake-upgrade-question/
Share on other sites

If you are upgrading to a proper car, ie a GT-R then don't waste money on such things as callipers etc on your present car.

To answer your questions:

1. A pulsing pedal is indicative of a warped rotor - weither get them machined or replaced.

2. If you are going on the track then avoid cross drilled rotors.

3. Bendix Ultimates aren't very good. But they are really dusty.

Just get the following bits:

1. New/machined rotors - preferably new if you are going to a track day.

2. A half way decent pad - I would recommend a Ferodo DS2500 but there are plenty of others that are not too dissimilar. Probably a good idea to get fronts and rears as who knows what is on the car presently.

3. Some new fluid. Probably doesn't matter so much what it is, but the key is new. If you want to get the best stuff get some Motul RBF 660 - 2 500ml containers will probably be in the $60 to 470 range.

4. Some braided lines if you really want them. Just make sure they are ADR compliant.

5. In a general sense a master cylinder stopper usually helps pedal feel.

If you are learning on the track massive brakes are not necessary. It tends to be one of the last things people learn to use properly. It is also one of the least influential elements on your lap time. So spend your money elsewhere.

hmmm thanks for that.

so what rotor would be best recommended???

as for braided lines. will i need them??? at most ill be doing 1 or 2 decas a year and maybe one or two track days but would also like a decent setup for the streets.

keep your standard calipers... i had race brakes RB74 pads in my r33 gtst and had dba 4000 series rotors and replaced the fluid with repsol competition stuff.. i didnt track it, but i would do the putty rd nearly once a month.. they did the job pulling the beast up from silly speeds coming into tight corners, never had brake fade... minimal dust and noise.. and always had a good pedal feel.

drove a mates rex down the putty to superlap on sunday and it stuggled after a few corners... the fluid would boil and lose braking feel, pedal would go to the floor.. it has semi slick tyres and they were overpowering the brakes..

hmmm thanks for that.

so what rotor would be best recommended???

as for braided lines. will i need them??? at most ill be doing 1 or 2 decas a year and maybe one or two track days but would also like a decent setup for the streets.

Well there is best & there is cheap & there is alot of ground in between.

The RDA group buy are pretty good value if they are still around.

No you dont need braided lines. But they do give you a nicer (harder) pedal feel.

If your not into anything too serious at the track, then you will more than likely struggle to drive out of your stock braking capabilities if your car is mainly stock itself performance wise. IE Stock turbo + bolt ons..

This of course, if you have good pads and fluid. Standard rotors will also be fine.

Tires do wonders too :) You cant go past a decent set of tires. They improve braking a hell of a lot.

If your not into anything too serious at the track, then you will more than likely struggle to drive out of your stock braking capabilities if your car is mainly stock itself performance wise. IE Stock turbo + bolt ons..

This of course, if you have good pads and fluid. Standard rotors will also be fine.

Tires do wonders too :sick: You cant go past a decent set of tires. They improve braking a hell of a lot.

standard rotors will be fine... yes, and in overall braking performance, rotors dont actually increase braking... what they do is remove gas and heat buildup much better and constantly clean the pads.. chucking a set of rotors on and heading down the street you'll stuggle to notice an improvement, its only under long hard braking from high speeds to slow speeds when the brakes just feel like theyve stopped working.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...