Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya,

My little bro is looking at a Mazda Rx7 1985 Turbo model. He asked me what there like or if i know of anyone that has owned one etc.

To be honest i dont know much about them.

Anyone owned on? Or know what there like?

The one he's looking at has an updated 2.oL engine only done around 60,000 kms

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263539-mazda-rx-7-1985-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

um i say dont buy if they saying it has a updated 2.0ltr engine.

considering they come with a 1.3ltr (13b) rotary engine, if it did have a 2.9ltr (20b) conversion it would cost big coin

the engine would be old most rota's of that age will need a rebuild as the apex seals in rotoa's are usually replaced at 100K depending on use,

ive had a couple rotarys but im off to work ill come back with more info later

Heya,

My little bro is looking at a Mazda Rx7 1985 Turbo model. He asked me what there like or if i know of anyone that has owned one etc.

To be honest i dont know much about them.

Anyone owned on? Or know what there like?

The one he's looking at has an updated 2.oL engine only done around 60,000 kms

Updated 2L engine? Making it a 20B rotary? Don't think so. Early RXs were 12A with the RX7 series getting the 13B (1.3 litre rotary)

I know their engine life is short. Most are thrashed and due for expensive rebuild. Think 2 stroke, and you get the idea of high maintenance costs.

Def buyer beware. Tell lil bro to join a rotary website and do some homework before handing over the folding stuff.

id confirm the kays of both the engine and chassis. the dash cluster bolts are surrounded with black foam when its installed, so check that to confirm that the chassis k's are accurate. (foam has to be removed to properly remove the cluster).

ask for receipts for the engine, and try to confirm mileage again, 20B into any rx isnt a huge job, but it isnt particularly regency friendly, look to see if the brakes and suspension have been upgraded to suit the weight and additional power of the 20B. (remember, a 20B is more than 50% heavier than the original 13B). if the engine is getting close to 100,000km, prepare for a rebuild (approx $5-7k). oil consumption and rotors go hand in hand, so dont worry too much, but as usual, if its blowing oil smoke, avoid it. also never use semi/full synthetic oil in it, only use mineral oils and mazda rotory oil.

pivot balls in the s5 boxes tend to be the weak point when youre using a heavy duty clutch (which you would be with a 20B-TT conversion), but replace those with a billet item and the box will last forever.

also keep in mind that a rotor will never pass an emissions test.

and if he does pick it up, tell him to be very particular with his startup and warm down procedures, start it up, let it idle in the drive way for a minute, and when driving, dont rev it any higher than 2,000rpm until youre up to operating temps, when youre finished driving, let it idle for a minute or 2 or 5 depending how hard youve been driving before shutting it down.

try not to drive it short distances, always allow it to get up to operating temps before shutting it down, starting it and shutting it down in small time frame and you run the risk of flooding the engine which can be a huge pain in the ass to clear.

also, take it to a reputable rotary workshop before purchase (eg, REVS or Mildrens) and have them look over the car with a fine tooth comb and throw it on the dyno.

happy motoring.

Edited by scandyflick
cheers guys

all the write up says is new imported turbo engine thats only done 60,000 kms. 2 cylinder Petrol Rotary 2.0L (2000cc)

heh, the advertisement is a little wrong then. twin rotors are 1.3L, triples are 2.0L.

Hmmm might tell him to steer clear.....

its just hes trying to find a turbo car around the $7,000 mark....

and he doesnt like silvias... lol

He's a smart man! S13 silvia's would have to be up there with the ugliest cars ever made!!! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...