Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im about to upgrade my Injectors and am probably going to get Nismo 555cc items but have noticed that the Sard ones are a little cheaper even with the collars.

Would appreciate some honest opinions on which injectors you guys believe is "better" and your reasoning for that decision. Ive been told by slide that the Sards are only a single spray as opposed to the Nismo quad spray but im having trouble making up my mind on what to go for.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264474-sard-or-nismo-injectors/
Share on other sites

Blue 700's (sard) are single spray, and the larger ones are dual spray... for RB26's at least

It's supposed to help with fuel atomisation or something, but i've been told that its really nothing to get excited about.

IMO for your general streeter, whatever fits your budget. Nismo's are easier to fit, Sard aren't... price is reflective of that IMO.

I know RB26's (twins sprays) you need new injector plugs too, or at least a mod... check the RB25 ones dont need that also

Maybe AFR's, but it wouldnt be huge (so little you would be hard pressed to pick it up i reckon)...

Maybe slightly better economy too, but i've really never seen some hard evidence here to back one or the other more favourably.

Everyone seems to be happy with the ones they have

I would go Nismo... ease of fitment. Thats just me.

Ive used them twice now... although i am taking the plunge soon and putting in Sards, well, im not putting them in myself this time i dont think actually.

The Nismo's i could easily do myself, i doubt the Sard's would be much more difficult however.

I think the price difference is less than $60 last time i looked so its nothing major out of $900-1k

My personal preference is Nismo. I've just seen what the shop I hang out at does, and most of the cars I've seen with Nismo injectors have had been able to run at a leaner idle, have had more consistant plug readings (color) across the set, and the used set we sent off to get flow tested were all with in 1cc of each other. I haven't seen any real bad things with the sards, it's just the few I have seen had to be run a little richer at idle than they normaly tune for, and the plugs looked a little different. Again, it's not that I've seen bad things with Sard, it's just I've been nothing but impressed with the Nismo's. I even paid for a set of new ones which are like $800 or so up here---which is saying something since I'm a cheap SOB that always tries to run ebay/second hand parts/knock off brand stuff when able.

R31Nismoid-Mate can you tell me where you have seen the Nismos for around 1k? I cant seem to find any under $1200 but maybe im not looking in the right areas :thumbsup: I shouldve grabbed some last year when they were were $870

Bloody economic meltdowns!!!!

My personal preference is Nismo. I've just seen what the shop I hang out at does, and most of the cars I've seen with Nismo injectors have had been able to run at a leaner idle, have had more consistant plug readings (color) across the set, and the used set we sent off to get flow tested were all with in 1cc of each other. I haven't seen any real bad things with the sards, it's just the few I have seen had to be run a little richer at idle than they normaly tune for, and the plugs looked a little different. Again, it's not that I've seen bad things with Sard, it's just I've been nothing but impressed with the Nismo's. I even paid for a set of new ones which are like $800 or so up here---which is saying something since I'm a cheap SOB that always tries to run ebay/second hand parts/knock off brand stuff when able.

Maybe I should send you some $$ and get you to ship some down here to Sydney...hehehe

put nismos in myne, easy to install and car ran perfectly on the same tune once i changed the settings in pfc. never had any experience with sard but as said, for the little extra go nismos if you can

i have a theory that the larger holes in the sard's make for poorer atomisation down low.... i.e. the fuel from the quad squirters is in smaller particles and can ignite easier.... hence the sards being worse on idle... and the tune having to be richer

e.g. bombtrack's car uses a LOT more fuel than mine (same mods) around town and idle, but on the GOR cruise return where we were on WOT all day we returned the same eonomy

hrm, they are back up around $1100... well, they were $1000 when i looked last :(

But prices change fairly often at the moment, not too stable... so $1200 delivered it is... fark...

Sorry, forgot to mention that was $800 USD. I'm a yank living in japan remember :(

My sards are fine, no rich idle issues and were supplied with plugs to suit - easy as. Only drama was they needed a couple of copper washers to space them off the rail as they seemed to be a few mm too short which resulted in them popping out of the manifold when it came on boost.

i have a theory that the larger holes in the sard's make for poorer atomisation down low.... i.e. the fuel from the quad squirters is in smaller particles and can ignite easier.... hence the sards being worse on idle... and the tune having to be richer

e.g. bombtrack's car uses a LOT more fuel than mine (same mods) around town and idle, but on the GOR cruise return where we were on WOT all day we returned the same eonomy

You could always bump the fuel rail pressure slightly... would help that :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...