Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok now i have the seat and headroom is limited with a helmet and cagework so i have cut out the brace that runs infront of the drivers seat and am going to mount it directly to the floor using OMP fixed seat rails.

Now im trying to work out the best way to mount it onto the floorpan so its stiff and secure. anyone got any pics of how they mounted theres besides using the factory sliding seat rail setup?

i got a few ideas but some other peoples ideas wouldnt be a bad idea :P

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Another vote for cobra here. I'm running an Evolution S. Just under 6ft but little frame (65kg). Seat is amazingly comfortable and the harness holes are at the prefect position for my height.

The biggest problem i ran into finding a seat was because I'm relatively skinny but not short any seat that fitted had the harness holes far to low. The only other option that sat great for me was recaro but WAY to expensive.

Ending up getting the evolution for under $1000 new on sale.

I had exactly the same problem, and found the Cobra's and Recaro's to be the best for harness hole height.

Couldn't be happier with my recaro though

Sorry but this is the only shot i really have of how i mounted the seat ( iPhone pic so also sorry about the quality) but i guess you get an idea anyway.

post-3493-1240447568_thumb.jpg

Here's another one with the seat in to give you an idea of height once in the car I still have more scope to lower it further via seat rail holes, but im not that tall.

post-3493-1240447809_thumb.jpg

Hope that helps out a bit.

ps also watch your window clearance shouldnt be an issue but jus be careful.

Cheers

Andrew

ok now i have the seat and headroom is limited with a helmet and cagework so i have cut out the brace that runs infront of the drivers seat and am going to mount it directly to the floor using OMP fixed seat rails.

Now im trying to work out the best way to mount it onto the floorpan so its stiff and secure. anyone got any pics of how they mounted theres besides using the factory sliding seat rail setup?

i got a few ideas but some other peoples ideas wouldnt be a bad idea :(

This is the job Brown Davis did on my seat rail. It was originally a Bride Superlow rail, and they chopped out the floor support and welded a new one in, then mounted the rail to the floor.

It was hidesouly expensive, but I couldn't be any lower.

post-8405-1240449402_thumb.jpg

im not surprised that is cost you a fortune Dane, its a prick of a job. bit hard to see yours but im intrigued how you still have the slides.

23082008129.jpg

This is how we did mine. it took a lot longer than i thought it would. The front mounts were cut completely out and a new one was made to fit snug up to the tunnel and sil. we welded this in then made gussets up and welded them in also so its not going anywhere in an accident. for the rear bar there is a steel plate welded into place under the car for one side to be bolted through. the other side uses the original mount.

27082008133.jpg

its not very pretty, but its strong as all hell. now the sound deadening is gone we have cleaned it up.

They actually chopped the bottom of my Bride rail off, and then welded the mounting points under the slider to the floor, so the sliders can still work as per usual.

Nice job you've done though, would have rather that done for the cost of mine... I'm going to do that on the passenger side eventually, as now the passenger seat sits way too high in the car in comparison to the driver.

Meridian for the cage? Your car is pretty mint track car these days , :)

Thanks mate, yep Meridian for the cage. They did a great job.

It's currently back in the workshop getting a HEAP of stuff done, will come back a completely different car. Can't wait to get it out on the track again.

  • 3 months later...

Just thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in. I'm roughly 6 foot, 80kgs.

I've had a pair of Recaro Speed's in my daily. I drove 1800kg straight from Melb to Brisbane in it. Not too bad, but my backside got a numb after a few hours. The base of the seat really holds your legs in place, however, for me, the upper half of the seat just didn't have the same amount of hold. By torso seemed to sift about the seat through corners. I still have them in the daily, but I'm glad I'm moving onto a luxo car with leather....

I had a pair of OBX Daytona's in my play car, but was not overly impressed, besides the fact that they are ADR approved. I bought mine new years ago. I found the the base lacked decent support and the backrest encouranged hunching over. I would end up with bad lower back pain for a trip from Melb to Winton. I got my hands on some foam inserts, but it was still not that great. The thigh support was too big, causing me to have the seat closer to the steering wheel. My clutch leg would get stiff and sore after a few laps.

I've just purchased a pair of Sparco Junior's. After sitting in them, they would instantly be the better of the 3 seats. Not as narrow as the OBX, but better torso support than the Recaro Speed's. Shoulder support is great, without pushing your shoulders forward (which is what I found the OBX seats did). I'm looking forward to getting them into the car and taking them for a test drive........ or sit.

I bought a pair of the cheap cheap copy seats off Just Jap for a GT4 we're building, and can vouch for them. They were fine around lakeside, maybe slighly loose fitting for me, but would be good if you are a little bigger than me.

They're stiff in the frame, so they don't move around at all. Not FIA though :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
    • Really, low/midrange torque goes really bad?? I want decent acceleration, maybe I use a stock rb25det neo manifold?    
×
×
  • Create New...