Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right now i need a dump pipe to complete my exhaust system..

Are JJR dump pipe reliable... Anyone had any issues with theirs?? or should i save up for a jap one??

Are there much gain of gettin a full exhaust system??

Current exhaust system consist of

HKS hi Power Silent

de- cat

HPI front pipe

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

Right now i need a dump pipe to complete my exhaust system..

Are JJR dump pipe reliable... Anyone had any issues with theirs?? or should i save up for a jap one??

Are there much gain of gettin a full exhaust system??

Current exhaust system consist of

HKS hi Power Silent

de- cat

HPI front pipe

cheers

Ive had my jjr stainless bellmouth on 4 about a year now and no problems.Good upgrade over the stock item

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4528285
Share on other sites

Just a quick note with the JJR dumps, I purchased a full "hyperflow" i think its called and few years back. $899, dump & front (ALL IN ONE) and cat back. looks great, nice cannon design And the angle it sits is bloody awesome, fitment was really good overall was very very pleased with the bang for buck. note this system has no mufflers.

Only last year I chopped my dump (wanted a bend for my new dump i was fabricating) and i noticed where the split/divorce pipe that separates the waste flap gas away from turbine gas flow merges back in around 50cm down, where they had made the whole for it to flow back into down the dump, its 40mm pipe and the bloody hole was oval, jagged and around 32mm in diameter.

now i dont suppose this is the end of the world, considering it was on a small low mount setup. but i did have some creep issues. it would always go a few extra psi. i was at the track once and tried to set it to 12 psi but after the run the gauge recall said i had hit 16-17.

but the rest off the system is very good. sounds great fitted very well.

so just be aware if you buy a split dump

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4528306
Share on other sites

i have the bell mouth front/dump pipe on my 32gtst. i noticed a slight increase in torque. i had to cut the flange off and shorten the pipe by about 200mm then weld the flange back on, so just remember u may need to do the same thing. just a hot tip, spend 50bucks and heat wrap the pipe before you fit it. adam

Edited by adamskill
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4528602
Share on other sites

I bought a bellmouth dump and was quite impressed with the quality. I went away from the split dump after hearing too many stories of wastegate creep caused by the split flange fouling on the wastegate and preventing it from opening properly. JJR have probably fixed that by now but I couldn't see the need for a split dump on a street car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4530314
Share on other sites

when you guys are talkin about it fowling the waste gate

do you mean

THIS ONE:

jjrscreamrb.jpg

OR THIS ONE:

jjrrbdump.jpg

OR THIS ONE:

jjrsplitdumprb.jpg

Cause im after just a split dump pipe so i can get some better exhaust flowage. (or all) and for my power range i dont think i need a full 3" removing the wastegate gasses from the stock 2.5" piping should free up enough flow as im only finding loss in power just before redline, however still sustaining maximum torque ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539131
Share on other sites

oh this is where my question comes, I ordered from jjr a front pipe dump pipe 1 piece, this dosent have the spliter at the start of the dump pipe for the other outlet on the turbo, is this a problem? Why do some dumps have the splitter to separate the 2 outlets? what difference is it not having the splitter? will i have problems at just 12 pounds stock turbo setup?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539297
Share on other sites

I have this: (didn't use those gaskets though)

jjrrbdump.jpg

Bought it probably a year or so ago? Haven't had any problems with it so far... Though the wastegate return was a bit rough on the inside, if I had something handy I would have cleaned it up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539427
Share on other sites

I have a JJR split front+dump ( the 3rd pic ), which I bought second hand.

Only issue I had was that the wastegate pipe, due to sticking out further towards the engine than a traditional bell mouth would, clashed a bit with.... something, I can't remember - I think the water line from the turbo. But it was no biggie - you just have to push it a bit.

In terms of bolting up to the turbo and cat, I had no problems. Well, I snapped half the bolts onto the turbo cause they were seized and its an absolute bitch to bolt back up (especially without ratcheting spanners) but no problem with the product :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539787
Share on other sites

Isn't that the whole point of the bellmouth? The fact that it doesn't separate the gases like the split dump does?

On my GT-RS turbo the exhaust umm.. part that bolts to the dump pipe had a built in separator whereas the stock turbo didn't, so the separator attachment on my split dump had to be removed when the new turbo went on. Hope that made sense.. So I imagine you would need a separator attachment made up for your dump pipe if you actually want to make use of the split design.

Edited by bryno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4539985
Share on other sites

was covered in great detail in a thread I read a while back.. something about turbulence and using a split dump to allow the gases to merge further down the pipe to create less turbulence/better flow.. think bellmouth allows you to go higher boost as the waste gate size isn't restricted like it is in the split design..

Some one who actually knows about this stuff would be better at answering that question though..

edit: found a bit of info on the split design.. gives you a bit of an idea, may not be entirely accurate though..

"Dual pipe technology is recognised by the major turbo company engineers to be the best way to make internally gated turbo's work in a most efficient way by breaking up (seperating) the different pressure ratio's between turbo and waste gas in order to eliminate turbulence. Eliminating all turbulance allows the turbo gas to rapidly accelerate away from the turbo. This action in turn reduces spool up time - produces more torque faster and will give a fatter torque curve all through the rev range."

Edited by bryno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4540036
Share on other sites

Ok but wat is used for what? Like if 1 big pipe is best why do they make split pipes? Or vice versa?

Do some searching, at higher levels of gas flow most splits have proven to be a restriction, and also a large number of wastegate flaps foul on the seperaters.... i would reccomend saving changing at some point, and getting a bellmouth, you could probably sell your HPI front pipe for the price of a JJR stainless bellmouth :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265039-jjr-dump-pipes/#findComment-4540271
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...