Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since i've got manifold/turbo/dump/front pipe off, i want to clean up the insides to remove casting marks/rough welds etc, and maybe a little bit of shaping on the manifold. I'm thinking an electric die grinder is the tool for the job. I dont want anything air powered - no space for a compressor.

Any suggestions on make/model or should i use something else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265055-exhaust-side-cleanup-what-tool/
Share on other sites

damn I was going to say air grinder was the tool for the job.

I guess dremel at low speed and a lot of stones if you have to go electric

How about Makita GD0600 HERE?

Some say that a dremel is underpowered for this work, and this one is the right price for something that wont get used much at $137. BUT a dremel is more useful for other things...

Hey buddy you want a high speed tool the more rpm's the better! get yourself some "flapper" wheels 60-80 grit and a carbite de-burring tool to take the bulk off then use the flapper wheels to clean things up and smooth it out.

If your iround the sth eastern area I would be happy to come out and give you a hand I've worked on supercars for the past 4 years so I'm not too sabby at these things anyhows let me know.

And yeah an electric die grinder with variable speed would be the go, I do prefere air powered tools and have some if your in the area pm me anyhows good luck with it mate.

Sorry mate just saw you were in Sydney any help I could give you just let me know

Edited by The BOP
Hey buddy you want a high speed tool the more rpm's the better! get yourself some "flapper" wheels 60-80 grit and a carbite de-burring tool to take the bulk off then use the flapper wheels to clean things up and smooth it out.

And yeah an electric die grinder with variable speed would be the go, I do prefere air powered tools and have some if your in the area pm me anyhows good luck with it mate.

So 20,000+ rpm is important, but what about variable speed? It looks like i need to get a pro one to get variable speed and its going to be triple the price...

Also, are the carbides ok for stainless as well as cast iron?

tnx

Also, are the carbides ok for stainless as well as cast iron?

steel bits will work on both,

there are alloy bits out there too with a bigger toothing to stop them clogging, dont get these for steel.

  • 4 weeks later...

Yep ! Ive seen that Makita die grinder and for the money it aint bad ! Ive had an AEG one, with a thinner longer snout, for about 20 years and just reciently had it serviced after a lot of years of hard porting.

But the money is in buying good quality tungsten carbide cutting tips !

Good ones run up to about $60 each.

Ive got a tear dropped shapped one that I got when I bought the die grinder and its still going strong.

As Craved said there are 2 types one for steel and one for alloy but you can get away with the steel ones for alloy if you have a bar of soap on the bench and you just hit the tip, while its going, into the soap every so often and will it stop the alloy from stickin to the tip

The $137 makita was fine. I used a single stone tip which didnt seem to wear at all, and a "flappy" one that seemed to wear quickly. I guess a carbide burr would have been quicker but i didnt have much material to remove.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...