Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Ecu Removal For Vipec Install

Proximity Motorsport
 Share

Recommended Posts

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Well I purchased a vipec v88 chip for my r32 with rb25. I got a r33 stock ecu here to put the vipec into. I got both the covers off the ecu and the screws holding the board in are soldered tight, with solder in the top where the screw driver goes.

Just wondering if anyone has any tips on getting these screws out? I tried to melt the solder but the $10 soldering iron is not proving helpful.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265242-r33-ecu-removal-for-vipec-install/
Share on other sites
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
Hey,

Well I purchased a vipec v88 chip for my r32 with rb25. I got a r33 stock ecu here to put the vipec into. I got both the covers off the ecu and the screws holding the board in are soldered tight, with solder in the top where the screw driver goes.

Just wondering if anyone has any tips on getting these screws out? I tried to melt the solder but the $10 soldering iron is not proving helpful.

cheers

if you didnt get any instructions with it then either its meant to be done by someone qualified or they are just shit.

i would call vipec tomorrow or give it to some one who knows what there doing, if you only have a $10 soldering iron then i guess your not into electronics and could very quickly f**k something in there.

seanp351 Contributor

seanp351

Posted
Posted

Either spend the money on a decent soldering iron and use a desoldering vacume pump/desoldering tape(get both of these from dick smith or other quality electronics stores) or like WOrp3D said get someone who knows what they are doing to do the install.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • GTSBoy
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • GTSBoy
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • GTSBoy
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • GTSBoy
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...