R33 Series 1 Need Help

[WOO32]

Hi all,

im writing on behalf of a mate with this issue. she has a 33 series 1, that cuts out randomly while she is driving or stalls if ur stoped, i have looked over all the entire car tested everything from fuel, to coils, to cas(hard to test if its intermitant), afm, etc but cant seem to put my finger on it. the cutting out whilst driving feels more like someone turns the key off for a few seconds then turns it back on, or it will just be completely dead with ur foot down to the ground to the point u need to pull over and wait, but the engine keeps running..if u give it a couple of revs and wait it turns off, same thing with pulling up at a set of lights, put the clutch in come to a stop and with in lets say 10 second it will be like turning off the key.

its very hard to explain, so hopefully this sounds right.

the only problem im having is the fact its very intermitant. eg, she could drive around for a week or so and not have it happen once but then there are some case's that it will happen 100 times within 10 mins,

we have tried mechanics and for some reason once the car gets to a work shop it doesnt happen so they look at us straing.

can anyone help

Edited April 13, 2009 by WOO32

[eeiko321]

Hi all,

im writing on behalf of a mate with this issue. she has a 33 series 1, that cuts out randomly while she is driving or stalls if ur stoped, i have looked over all the entire car tested everything from fuel, to coils, to cas, afm, etc but cant seem to put my finger on it. the cutting out whilst driving feels more like someone turns the key off for a few seconds then turns it back on, or it will just be completely dead with ur foot down to the ground to the point u need to pull over and wait, but the engine keeps running..if u give it a couple of revs and wait it turns off, same thing with pulling up at a set of lights, put the clutch in come to a stop and with in lets say 10 second it will be like turning off the key.

its very hard to explain, so hopefully this sounds right.

the only problem im having is the fact its very intermitant. eg, she could drive around for a week or so and not have it happen once but then there are some case's that it will happen 100 times within 10 mins,

we have tried mechanics and for some reason once the car gets to a work shop it doesnt happen so they look at us straing.

can anyone help im leaning towards cas or afm.

i would check the Air flow meter and did you check the Throttle position sensor?

usually they are the 2 main culprits to this kind of stalling issue.... AAC valve can also cause issues.....

check vaccume hoses as well...make sure there are no leaks or cracks.

try eliminate things as you go

[Benzino33]

<br />i would check the Air flow meter and did you check the Throttle position sensor?<br />usually they are the 2 main culprits to this kind of stalling issue.... AAC valve can also cause issues.....<br /><br />check vaccume hoses as well...make sure there are no leaks or cracks.<br /><br />try eliminate things as you go<br />

<br /><br /><br />

Yeah I used to have a stalling problem, changing the IAC fixd that,,also repositioning the tps helped the idle. lol and I hate it when u go to the mechanics and the car doesnt do what it was doing rong. Anyways, good luck with it

[WOO32]

i have checked all vaccume hoses.i have tried to disconnect the tps the only thing i noticed was once i hit throttel is more of a flat spot at lower revs but the car kept on running untill the issue happend again.

i had a quick look over the air flow meter and it looked fine checked all pins inside the unit and cleaned everything i could see with contact cleaner,

at one point i thought maybe the ignition module but i cant find one anywhere i know what they look like coz i have one on my r32 and my mates series 2 r33 has it in the same place as mine but then i heard that that model doesnt come with that module so i eliminated that..

[eeiko321]

i have checked all vaccume hoses.i have tried to disconnect the tps the only thing i noticed was once i hit throttel is more of a flat spot at lower revs but the car kept on running untill the issue happend again.

i had a quick look over the air flow meter and it looked fine checked all pins inside the unit and cleaned everything i could see with contact cleaner,

at one point i thought maybe the ignition module but i cant find one anywhere i know what they look like coz i have one on my r32 and my mates series 2 r33 has it in the same place as mine but then i heard that that model doesnt come with that module so i eliminated that..

next, check/dismantle the AAC valve

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a28301-

there is a DIY thread on here in how to dismantle and clean it

[WOO32]

but doesnt the aac valve just make the idle raise if its cold. not make the engine cut out while cruzing along?

but worth a shot anyway

[eeiko321]

but doesnt the aac valve just make the idle raise if its cold. not make the engine cut out while cruzing along?

but worth a shot anyway

well the AAC being dirty messes up the signal to the ECU... and can cause irregular idle...

most people have cleaned this valve and found the car running alot better.

give it a try and keep us posted

its better you eliminate this, rather than keeping it there in the back of your head with a question mark...

Edited April 13, 2009 by eeiko321

[cmoney]

Best bets i could think of would be AFM, being a series 1 it would have the green label AFM same as the R32 which have been known to play up from time to time.

The bit that makes it confusing is where you said the engine keeps running, so then i would assume the cutting out would be a massive loss of power. This could then be something like an O2 sensor possibly. If the car stalls & has an erratic idle its most likely the AFM for sure. Im about to change my O2 sensor in my R32 to fix a power loss problem which is also intermittant & very annoying. I hope its the O2 sensor, cos im outta ideas....

Good luck with it

[WOO32]

Hi all

Just updating everyone, ok aac valve cleaned put back in and still the same thing,

looked at the afm its a pink label one just going to try a second one and see how she goes. as for "The bit that makes it confusing is where you said the engine keeps running, so then i would assume the cutting out would be a massive loss of power. This could then be something like an O2 sensor possibly. If the car stalls & has an erratic idle its most likely the AFM for sure" its very intermitant sometimes she will cut out for not even a second but other times it can cut out for a good 3-4 seconds sometimes once this happens if u put the clutch in it will stall strait away and other times it wont. i know very confusing and fustrating at the same time!

does anyone know if the pink lable afm's are good or common for issues???

question for "cmoney", with ur r32 what issues are u having with that, my 32 has a wierd surge issue, eg. if u floor it, 1 gear is fine revs out nicely but, second gear, thrid and fourth have this wierd stumbling or hesitation at a few points above 3000rpm right out to redline.

[Benzino33]

Best bets i could think of would be AFM, being a series 1 it would have the green label AFM same as the R32 which have been known to play up from time to time.

The bit that makes it confusing is where you said the engine keeps running, so then i would assume the cutting out would be a massive loss of power. This could then be something like an O2 sensor possibly. If the car stalls & has an erratic idle its most likely the AFM for sure. Im about to change my O2 sensor in my R32 to fix a power loss problem which is also intermittant & very annoying. I hope its the O2 sensor, cos im outta ideas....

Good luck with it

my series 1 r33's got a pink label on the AFM. Is that bad?

[WOO32]

Hi all, just an up date, i have tested many different parts on the cas, afm, ecu, coils, aac, tps. u name it ive tried it, i started back tracking all wiring through out the car.. i came accross heaps of cut wired that were re-joined or taped up, taped off wired from the previous owner.. there were way to many wires to fix so i got a wiring loom from a wrecker and tried that.. unfortunatly still no luck. im stumped!! lol i have never let a car get the best of me but this car is really trying my patients.. but im not going to give up.

ill keep u all updated on my progress!

wish me luck.

[r32dan]

hey mate had stalling problem myself and put standard BOV back on and so far so good.

[WOO32]

HI all,

just another update, i changed the ECU and Afm and problem stopped YAY!....Ooo, well i thought :-( after about a week of constant driving once again the issue came back up so i had the old afm and ecu sent away for check, came back with a report and part of the report said "look for yourself".. so i did. cracked her open and and noticed half the tracks on the main board were burnt,blown off and half lifted from the circuit board. looked at the afm and noticed the same thing.. very very wierd. once i cracked open the replacement ecu i noticed the same thing...

Now my hunt is directed more to a short out somewhere. voltage/current spikes but im starting off with a new regulator/brushes for the alternator

Peace

Paulie

[Tommy Kaira RL]

If you follow the tracks that are burnt back to the connector block it will give you a clue which colour wires on the loom might be giving you the problem then check a wiring diagram and look where it goes it could possibly be the signal wire from afm to ecu is grounded some times and picking up static it dosent take much current to blow off a track

[cmoney]

my series 1 r33's got a pink label on the AFM. Is that bad?

No mate, it could just be in the change over period. As a rule (from what i have seen anyway), series 1 R33s usually have the green label unit like the R32, & the series 2 have the pink label unit, as found in the R34. No biggie....