Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i sold my R32 GTR V-Spec II and now have stuff left over for sale that i didn't end up using or i stripped.

i've checked prices both locally and direct from japan so don't bother with any low blow PM's. prices are reasonable so im pretty firm on them. postage is at buyers expense.

Defi Display Unit + Defi Control Unit II + Tacho/Speed Signal + Oil Temp/Pressure, Water Temp & Boost Sensors

Price: $800 (will not separate)

Condition: as new - oil temp/pressure sensors are brand new

Picture008.jpg

Greddy Oil Filter Relocator Kit BNR32

Price: $220

Condition: brand new

Picture018.jpg

Kaixen 6000k H1 Hid Kit

Price: $180

Condition: brand new

Picture009.jpg

Picture015.jpg

ARC 1.5 BAR Radiator Cap

Price: $60

Condition: as new

Picture007.jpg

Nismo Fashion Lighter

Price: $50

Condition: as new

Picture006.jpg

Moonface R Magnetic Drain Bolt

Price: $45

Condition: brand new

Picture001.jpg

Project Mu Reservior Cover

Price: $30

Condition: as new

Picture019.jpg

Standard 0.9 BAR Radiator Cap

Price: $10

Condition: used

Picture014.jpg

Nakamichi Standard Headunit

Price: $40

Condition: used

Picture004.jpg

Genuine Veilside Seatbelt Pads

Price: $80

Condition: as new

Picture020.jpg

Genuine Veilside MT Pedals

Price: $100

Condition: brand new

Picture017.jpg

oh and im located in sydney western suburbs.

cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265444-r32-gt-r-parts-cleanout/
Share on other sites

nismo fashion lighter - SOLD

also forgot to mention i've got this stuff for sale too!

PS3 40GB console - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...s3-t265445.html

8GB Ipod Touch - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...gb-t265447.html

thanks

PRICE DROPS!

Defi Display Unit + Defi Control Unit II + Tacho/Speed Signal + Oil Temp/Pressure, Water Temp & Boost Sensors

Price: $750 (will not separate)

Condition: as new - oil temp/pressure sensors are brand new

Greddy Oil Filter Relocator Kit BNR32

Price: $200

Condition: brand new

Kaixen 6000k H1 Hid Kit

Price: $150

Condition: brand new

ARC 1.5 BAR Radiator Cap

Price: $40

Condition: as new

Nismo Fashion Lighter

Price: SOLD

Condition: as new

Moonface R Magnetic Drain Bolt

Price: $35

Condition: brand new

Project Mu Reservior Cover

Price: $20

Condition: as new

Standard 0.9 BAR Radiator Cap

Price: $5

Condition: used

Nakamichi Standard Headunit

Price: $30

Condition: used

Genuine Veilside Seatbelt Pads

Price: $60

Condition: as new

Genuine Veilside MT Pedals

Price: $75

Condition: brand new

thanks :)

ITEMS SOLD (pending payments)

- Kaixen 6000k H1 Hid Kit

- ARC 1.5 BAR Radiator Cap

- Moonface R Magnetic Drain Bolt BNR32

- Project Mu Reservior Cover

Also have this for sale:

K&N Carbon Fibre Pod Filters + Adapters to suit BNR32

Price: $100

Condition: used

No picture at the moment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
    • Ah the car is a complete shitbox and not even worth a respray lol, for a professional to do it would probably cost 15k because of all of the dings and stufd but I was keen for a side project. Also solved the problem of being bored haha. But with the rust yeah I can always fix that in the future, not a huge issue for me. I found out yesterday that when a dent is created a high spot is created around it (the crown) and to fix it I either need to tap the edges or just sand over it. Which is what made my filler work a bit confusing originally lol.
    • That's some useful information to have , it would be great if we had more local suppliers .
×
×
  • Create New...