Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 127
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got an old Motor mag that pit this GTS-R against the R33 GT-R :D

well no verdict needed

the GT-R R33 would smash it..

even the standard WRX ate it for breakfast

the power to weight ratio speak for itself as well as the AWD ATTESSA would smash that ugly dog at the track

no comments from the article needed......................

i think you will find the particular jap models your talking about would have been alot more expensive than local 4 doors of the era if they had been sold here new. More expensive cars always look better than ones that cost half as much.

eg AUS new skyline GTR in 89-90 was 100k when a local Commodore SS Group A was about 50k so Im guessing if you could have brought a GTST new in australia in 95 it would have been more expensive than a similar mid spec commodore.

Also you have to remember australian car import prices are artificially inflated by import tarrifs and the SEVS scheme which protects australian manufacturers like holden and ford from competition from second hand imports by artificially raising the landed complied price, in NZ which has no import tarrifs there is very few holdens or fords on the road and almost all cars are 2nd hand imports from japan. If you could just buy a car in japan and import it to australia with no complience costs, there would be alot less 10-15yo holdens and fords being driven by australians.

Another thing is that import cars in australia are primarily two door sports coupes like Skyline, sylvia, rx7 and supra. There is plenty of cheap jap 4 doors which arent allowed in australia like nissan primeras, mitsibishi lancer GSRs, mazda familias, honda vigor and even toyota altezza which is already sold here as lexus IS

The Aussie delivered R32 was around $108k compared to the SS Commodore coming in at around $38k, so you're right, it'll be a bit of a difference. A better comparo would be the same era 911 that Nissan has always aspired to was around $160k, so the argument could be made that the R35's $170k versus the current 911 turbo's $320k+ is becoming even more of a bargain, particularly now that Porsche is now getting worried rather than flattered by Nissan's goals....

The Aussie delivered R32 was around $108k compared to the SS Commodore coming in at around $38k, so you're right, it'll be a bit of a difference. A better comparo would be the same era 911 that Nissan has always aspired to was around $160k, so the argument could be made that the R35's $170k versus the current 911 turbo's $320k+ is becoming even more of a bargain, particularly now that Porsche is now getting worried rather than flattered by Nissan's goals....

THe R32 Australian delivered was 120,000$ to be precise... a price for a decent house back then

The VH commodores SS were not as expensive as you mentioned back then.....for both your information it was only 13,000$ brand new back in 1982.

and Nissan had their eyes set on the Porsche's performance 6 years ago when they built the R34 GT-R NUR.....which did not perform better than the porsches...

its only till this day Nissan had triumphed and pissed Porsche off...

Edited by eeiko321
I think that part is kind of obvious.... :P

yeah man.....

they compared the R33 GT-R on wheels magazine against the BMW M5 and late model Holden Clubsport R8....

obviously all cars had thier pros....

but the summary the GT-R was described as "its just TOO good......"

so if the GT-R was an all round better car than these 2....... no need to compare the DOGZ-BALLS of a car the GTS-R

^ I believe Nissan Skyline were pursuing Porsche since the first GTR was built.

The earliest predecessor of the GT-R, the S54 2000 GT-B, came second in its first race in 1964 to the purpose-built Porsche 904 GTS.

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skyline_gtr

"The great-granddaddy of the new GT-R, the "Godzilla" R32 Skyline GT-R produced from 1989-'94, was designed to equal the performance of the iconic Porsche 959.

Nissan's benchmark for the 2009 GT-R? The mighty Porsche 997-series 911 Turbo."

- http://www.edmunds.com/nissan/gtr/2009/review.html

^ I believe Nissan Skyline were pursuing Porsche since the first GTR was built.

The earliest predecessor of the GT-R, the S54 2000 GT-B, came second in its first race in 1964 to the purpose-built Porsche 904 GTS.

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skyline_gtr

yes it states the 904 was 130KW and the early GT-R was around 120kw........

but from then on..... porsche had really sky rocketed in performance, stock vs stock...the Successors of this particular GT-Rs couldnt compare

Even the NUR V-spec could not compare with the 911 turbo or GT2 at the time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...