Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

im not sure if i need to run low or high impedence injectors for my gtr. has a power fc & the resistor pack is still in the car so im pretty sure its low impedence.

if i take out the resistor pack & run high impedence is there any advantage in doing this?

what style of plug does the gtr have, is it what they call a denso plug?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265886-injectors-for-gtr/
Share on other sites

Why don't you find a workshop or tuner your happy with, Pay them for an hour of their time and sort out exactly what you do and don't need for this engine your building??

Not trying to be rude but it would save you alot of headaches if you ask the one person who will ultimately make or break the rebuild your doing.

Just food for thought

Why don't you find a workshop or tuner your happy with, Pay them for an hour of their time and sort out exactly what you do and don't need for this engine your building??

Not trying to be rude but it would save you alot of headaches if you ask the one person who will ultimately make or break the rebuild your doing.

Just food for thought

Agreed.

It seems 'Marko' and 'im late' are the main players getting a rebuild or upgrading their shit at the moment...a new thread for each question and each different component on their engines.

Getting pretty draining.

i apologise in advance as i just found out that the sales rep im dealing with has nfi

the guy couldnt point me in the right direction with impedence or plug... i finally found what im looking for on google

hopefully this thread might help someone else who is searching for the same answer, gtr runs a bosch plug!

pls ignore this thread :-)

high imp in your size requirement would be rediculous. low imp are much better. who the hell runs 800cc high imp injectors ?

Umm every 800cc SARD equipped GTR, same as 700cc SARD (and every other GTR replacement injector on the damn market in 700-1000cc)

Your point exactly would be...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...