Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my car do a power run on a dyno yesterday, was free so thought why not. However the dyno sheet had a steavy curve upwards but then hit a flat spot and literally was a straight line and then back up, it sounded like it was running excessively rich as well at that point in time (almost sounded like it was bogging down).

The dyno print out gave me 240hp at the wheels and the AFR's were at around 14-15 when boosting. the highest they reached were 15.25. which from what i understand is fairly high.

The mods i have are as follows:

FMIC

10 Psi Boost

Pod

3.5" exhaust turbo back

just the basics.

I know without a decent a/m computer there is not much i can do however i would like some feedback from some of the more knowledged users such as r31 nismoid etc.

Just want a straight forward answer on how to fix these problems and have my car running close to 300hp at the wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265910-had-my-car-dyno-tested/
Share on other sites

if you are hitting 14-15 afrs when on boost \ full load, please stop driving the car and fix whatever the problem is.

If you don't, you're engine is going to go bang, and very VERY soon.

They should be below 12:1 for safe operation under full load.

You may have a stuffed fuel pump.

+1 on stuffed fuel pump. Exactly the problem i had with mine....stuffed AFM didnt help either when the aftermarket piggyback ECU was pulled out, cos all of a sudden the car was playing up, but before that fuel pump was dead from 4000rpm on, & i hit over 15 for the AFR on the dyno print out as well. As soon as i had a new pump, AFR was around 12 & very happy :blink:

Suddenly made another 20kw at the wheels, even after dropping boost by 5psi.

Edited by cmoney

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...