Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

really? i would have thought the mounting surface being closer to the centre of the wheel (where the load is spread more evenly each side) would have been beneficial.

2 points here, biggest cause of failure there is from harsh bumps in the road, not from cornering force, here the car sits static with almost always negative camber, this means staticly there is more force on the inside of the wheel, and when u hit a bump the suspension compresses, causing more dynamic negative camber, putting even more stress towards the inside of the wheel.

so if the stress here is put on the inside of the wheel, putting the mounting surface closer to the inside of the wheel, or at least closer to the middle, means the load is spread more evenly at the mounting surface, and there is less leverage.

Nisskid, agree with you that more stress may be caused by harsh bumps rather than cornering force since they are more dynamic and therefore require less force for failure - but not really sure since haven't measured it. Ive however heard of this type of failure happening more on the track (where u'd expect more cornering force) rather than on the street (where you'd expect more bumps) but could be wrong.

This failure is caused by the fact that putting an unsecured spacer on ur wheel changes the point at which the force hits the hub whilst not changing the point of bending. So where as the shear force is not larger, the bending moment will significantly increase and hence cause extra stress which will more likely result in shear failure. Here is the very rough diagram showing this:

post-22920-1240500267.jpg

Note the rectangles are the hubs not the wheels. The horizontal 5 lines are the wheel studs and the vertical line is where the wheel force is applied to the studs.

The letters in blue/red are forces and in black distances. Forces calculated assuming an applied force of x kN from the wheel.

Note that in this very rough sketch and i have approximated with the wheel load being a point load (x). As u increase the spacer size (from y to z) you get a linear increase in bending moment. In reality, this would be a distributed load, so the bending moment would really increase by a factor of the distance squared. ie if you x3 the distance, its x9 the bending moment.

Edited by Taso84

i think i get what ur trying to say, but it looks like ur talking about slip ons, not bolt on spacers? but yes, slip ons do add more leverage to the sheer force placed on the studs.

but i think if u look at the original post by mid life crisis, he simply refers to pushing the wheel out further, no reference to spacers, so im assuming he meant simply lowering the offset/increasing the track.

i personally wouldnt reccomend slip-on spacers any bigger than a few mm, the hub ring usually protrudes around 5mm, so unless ur using hubcentric slip ons (fairly rare) u lose ur hub at anything from about 4mm and over, and ur wheel is no longer hubcentric, that placed with the extra load we were talking about before, ur asking for trouble.

i think i get what ur trying to say, but it looks like ur talking about slip ons, not bolt on spacers? but yes, slip ons do add more leverage to the sheer force placed on the studs.

but i think if u look at the original post by mid life crisis, he simply refers to pushing the wheel out further, no reference to spacers, so im assuming he meant simply lowering the offset/increasing the track.

i personally wouldnt reccomend slip-on spacers any bigger than a few mm, the hub ring usually protrudes around 5mm, so unless ur using hubcentric slip ons (fairly rare) u lose ur hub at anything from about 4mm and over, and ur wheel is no longer hubcentric, that placed with the extra load we were talking about before, ur asking for trouble.

i run 3mm slip-on's to clear my breaks on the fronts...

i had custom spiggots machined up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...