Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Does anyone know how to get all 4 rear lights lit up when braking?

I heard it's possible, however the brake light bulbs are easily blown if not done correctly, especially if the parking lights are on.

Is there a guide on how to do this properly?

Thanks

getting my dad to do this for me as he loves these kinda things.

from what i know what you will need is 2 double filament globes (same as you normal brake light but a size smaller so it fists the hole) and an inline fuse and globe holder.

locate which wire is the brake line wire splice into it it and run the wires to the right fittings int he new globe holder thing and presto.

its easy to do and kinda fiddley thats why my dads doing it for me lol but ye if no one has done this by next sunday ill have mine done by then and will put up a detailed instruction.

checked mine last night and all four tails brighten up when i brake, plus the small light top of boot lights up.

is that a standard thing on gtt? or is it gtt 4 door or has mine been modified i wonder??? I know i didnt do it... Pic below any help???

21042009126.jpg

Edited by STYLN

I think all 4 door has 4 lighting up cause that's the first thing I notice when I see a 4 door. Haven't seen any 2 door with 4 lighting up so far. Loved to do it to mine.. I thought it was just splicing the smaller light wire and join it to the main brake wire. I mean the ground wire of those 2.

Edited by ducki
  • 5 months later...

All four stay lit as in when you hit the brakes?

It'd be interesting to see if there are any noticable changes to the wiring.

Wouldn't happen to have time to take some pics would you? :)

as in the two smaller ones stay lit.. but don't go bright when i brake like the big ones..

i only noticed this when i replaced with just jap LED ones.. but am unsure if they were always like it.. i'm sure i could take a pic of the wires

Oh I think what you're talking about is the normal setup.

Both the outer and inner circles are lit when you have your lights on.. but when you hit the brakes, only the outer ones will go brighter.

I'm hoping to wire it so that even when I don't have the parkers on and I hit the brakes, all four will light up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...