Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Waaay back in the day there was a Daihatsu Mira getting around here, stock looking, white with a small bonnet scoop for a top mount cooler, sporting a turbo'd motor. It made 130fwkw, and had awesome power to weight ratio. Fittingly, the plates were GRNADE lol.

I'm quite a fan of the thought of a Volvo or Daihatsu hatch with some performance behind it, and well said about the Volvo driver assumption, anyone remember that epic fail Volvo ad campaign about 'bloody Volvo drivers'?

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

I think a good 50% of people on here miss the point of a sleeper. An Evo, chaser, R31 (nowadays) etc, isnt a sleeper. Anything imported Q45 etc is going to be assumed by anyone with half a brain about cars to have had something done to it, at the very least been driven by a car fan. Datsuns are modded a lot too, so no surprises there. Tureno? you're joking right?? has anyone ever pulled up next to one and thought it was just an old banger?

Volvo is a good start, and the 240/740's etc are fantastic. Volvo's are invisible to cops. I use to drive a 740 and once went past a cop with a gun doing 60kmph in a 40 zone and didnt get pulled over. It wasnt a busy road either. It you want to be different. Get a late model 850 AWD wagon and put 'R' goodies in it. The engines are designed to be turbo'd (or you could just get the R/T5 engine which already has one on it) and there's a lot of european aftermarket stuff out there for them.

if you want something that's straight speed, why not go completely left field? What about a Daewoo Lanos, Ford Festiva, Kia etc? I spose the drive train would need a hell of a lot of work to take any amount of stress but you have to admit, no one would see it coming.

Volvo with an 8 has been done before many times...heavy car.

A Volvo 240 is in the 1300kg range (which puts it in GTS-t territory, or older GT-R turf) and the engine bay will easily accomodate a boosted Holden 308.

Most of the people here have opted for drag sleds, but Tassie has some of the nicest corners in Australia. I'd consider a lighter corner carver that blows away bogans driving outside town. There's one thing to leave some Dunnydore driver eating your dust off the line, but there's something else to have that driver eating trees because they've fallen off a country road trying to keep up with you in the bends.

I'd contemplate something like a Mitsubishi Galant VR4. 2.5L twin turbo AWD, but because they're so uncommon chances are bogans won't know what it is. Unlike the Liberty RS Turbo (or B4 if you can afford it) it doesn't have a giant bonnet scoop to give the game away. Just paint the FMIC black.

Alternatively, something like an MX-5 with a 13B turbo conversion. Everyone assumes your hairdresser's car is slow, but it'll haul arse in a straight line and spank people through the bends.

1988 JE Holden Camira wagon. C20XE conversion (Manual Calibra engine), Calibra brakes, weight reduction (right on 1000kg with a small amount of fuel in it). Has 96fw kw at the moment N/A, but turbo conversion is in the works. I sold it to my brother last week... it's faster than my stock S2 Stagea.

I have a small sleeper at the moment...

Its a 1996 Mitsubishi Lancer Ce Coupe with a Evo 5 or 6? engine and gearbox in it....

It has a small style lukey muffer at the rear (std style tip)

Front mount (Black painted) is small and it sits behind the std front bar easily..

It looks very standard and only has 15" rims...

Its a load of fun in the dry except for in the WET! then its scary and no fun at all..

The look you get from a v8 owner when you not only keep up with him but let him here the external gate going off as you start to pull away!

Have been giving this some more thought (and I can't believe this thread is still going).

I was thinking a 1998 Lancer 4 door GLi (I hate them with a passion by the way) with the 1.8 litre 4G93 twin cam.

Then add on one of these babies: http://www.raptorsc.com.au/kits.php?id=24 for a nice 134 kW ATW add an intercooler for safety, or even a water to air intercooler off a subaru liberty so its kept under the bonnet.

Plus extractors and a quiet but free flowing exhaust system, should give a nice multiplyer on top of the supercharger.

According to the bumf the supercharger kit alone makes for a 13 second car.

That would be amusing.

my mate has a 1jz inside a toyota crown, i dunno much about it. but it sure as hell is a sleeper.

or you could just a GTiR the look on people's face the next set of lights is always priceless

A GTiR is not a sleeper.

I think people are missing the point with the idea of getting something that people dont know about (ie, Q45, Aristo, obscure imports etc) therefore they'll think its slow. Thats not the way to do it. You'll still attract cop attention, anyone who knows anything is going to see you coming a mile off. unless you're trying to trick mum's in Patrols etc. If they dont know what it is, then they will be open to expect anything. you'll stick out too much.

The key is, is to make a sleeper out of something people *think* they know about. Ie, people think Daihatsu's/Cameira (grreat suggestion!)/Volvo's are slow etc. thats where you'll get your surprise and safety from cops and would be thief's.

Also, surprised i didnt think of it. But a really good alternative to the V8 Volvo, is getting either a 960 or S90 which is the mid 90's large RWD sedan. Stock, its a 3l DOCH inline 6cyc . over-engineered like all volvos are to take a lot more than they handle. A lot of people in Sweden are putting twin turbo kits on it and are getting good results. Knowledge on how to etc, is all online and equipment available from Europe. its a common thing overseas but i've never heard of a modded one in australia getting about.

^rice that bitch out and stick it to all those high and mighty skyline owners that ever laughed at a lancer

As I said I can't stand base model lancers.

But you could nearly go the anti-sleeper with this one. Because all lancers have crappy bodykits and stickers for performance kit they don't have if it had them people would assume it didn't so when it did it would be a sleeper. Kinda.

Or you could not.

  • 4 weeks later...
It'd seem a bit silly to try and stuff a big motor into a Kei car though.

Datsun 1200 with CA18DET?

Personally I'd choose a 13B, maybe with a GT35/40, water injection to get away with not needing an intercooler, keep the standard wheels, a sunvisor and rear venitian for that old school look and a dummy exhaust tip to finish it off....

Heres one we prepared earlier:

n580804146_253348_2497.jpg

DSC04431.jpg

DSC06964.JPG

The car has run 12.2 at 125mph in full street trim (including 175 wide 13-inch tyres) and has run 11.4/121mph on slicks (but still full exhaust/pump fuel etc)

Just bought a R31 pintara station wagon.

Its dented to sh*ttery.

Flakey paint.

Grass stains are up around the doors where the grass was left to grow.

Engine has a blown head gasket but it drives.

1 year rego which is nice though.

Interior is complete and the whole driveline is surprisingly immaculate, no rust that I can see - plus its a one owner car.

$400!!!

Bargain.

The old 400 horsepower 351 stroker that used to belong in my Falcon will be getting a new home very shortly - or a SR20DET will fit in nicely, or a cheap RB25/30. Or I'll fix it and clean it up and make a profit :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...