Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

pull the dash out disconnect the wires and uncrew the back panel..check the bulbs and see if u can find them at your local store...u can use blue caps on stock bulbs to get a nice effect abit of muckin around and u'll get thier...sorry havent done it myself but seen some images on the net and instructions how to do it didnt seem to complicated.

inast u ricer :) ... looks good .. i wish mine looked that good ... apex gear looks good too :D ... i think that what it looks like is that the numbers instead of being white will be the colour of the bulb ... however i'm thinkin that it won't be as bright so u will have to get really bright bulbs ... i want to do this too ... please someone do it and take some pics :)

A mate has had the bulbs changed in his car and it looks great.

Basically it looks totally stock when the lights are out. But at night when you turn the lights on, everywhere on the dash where it's normally white light, it turns to blue.

Looks very good and is easy on the eyes at night.

J

AutoSalon magazine ran a DIY article on this topic, they did it in a 180sx i believe.

Basically, rip out dash, cover all bulbs with AutoMeter or similar brand globe cover things, put dash back in, too easy.

Originally posted by hippy

inast u ricer :) ... looks good .. i wish mine looked that good ... apex gear looks good too  :D ... i think that what it looks like is that the numbers instead of being white will be the colour of the bulb ... however i'm thinkin that it won't be as bright so u will have to get really bright bulbs ... i want to do this too ... please someone do it and take some pics  :)

bulbs r shit.

with the EL dask kit u have brightness control and u can go from blue to green backlit in 5 shades between.

i was thinkin of doing this to go BMW style or something.

ALL ORANGE.

but nv had tthe guts to go tamper with it

what abt the dash board buttons such as aircon control unit the lights and etc

possible to make those orange too?

tahnksss

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...