Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want find out some opinions, on getting HID. Should I go for the cheap China shit or the Philips germany made? Well i havn't used HID before so I wanna know some advise from people have use them before. Hope you guys can help!

thank you

SLinky-A :):P:wub:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266488-hid-choices-on-china-or-germany/
Share on other sites

I want find out some opinions, on getting HID. Should I go for the cheap China shit or the Philips germany made? Well i havn't used HID before so I wanna know some advise from people have use them before. Hope you guys can help!

thank you

SLinky-A ;):blink::wub:

well alot of these HID kits are made in china anyhow

you will find some things from phillips is made in germany but the parts will be manufactuerd at china or vice versa.

anyhow, ive not had a problem with HID kit from china.

where are you looking to buy? if its ebay.... and it says "phillips" or "manufactuered in germany" ...dont bother

because its most likely a counterfeit. unless you buy directly from Phillips sales website.

ive helped a friend fit a Chinese made (no brand) HID kit for his yaris....in late 2005. .. till this day he has never had problems

Edited by eeiko321

hey thx for the help and yeah i'm looking on ebay for one. Well may aswell try the HID kits made from china than. I'll give them a go, if i have problems i'll just buy the philips one. Thx for the help mate.

SLinky-A :D:P:dry:

i've had a korean made kit in mine for about 3 years, and i run my lights whenever i'm driving.

Kaixen, they're a top brand for HID, i think a trader on these forums sells them.

If you don't want to splash for Phillips or Bosch, i'd recommend Kaixen. Same tech as Phillips

Aww that sounds good. :P

Would u know the traders name or details and

whats the price range for those HID Kaixen,

would helps a lot thx mate.

SLinky-A :P:dry::P

there all the same.... just check out the one with the best price

are you going to wire them yourself?

if so, make sure you chose a right spot for the 2 Ballasts..

some idiots put them in spots where it can get wet or extreme heat...

this will cause premature ageing.

in front of the Suspension is the best spot usually

hey

yeah I'm going to fit them myself. Try DIY for most things for my car.

One thing, why in the world are the sellers telling me that the Kits for my GTR R32 are H4???

Btw how do i spot the different between the H4 n H1 in my R32?

Thank you

SLinky-A :D:):ph34r:

Edited by SLinky-A
hey

yeah I'm going to fit them myself. Try DIY for most things for my car.

One thing, why in the world are the sellers telling me that the Kits for my GTR R32 are H4???

Btw how do i spot the different between the H4 n H1 in my R32?

Thank you

SLinky-A :D>_<:/

nah man.....dont trust ebay sellers

here are some pics with differences

h3c.jpgThis is a H3

c9a2_2.JPG This is a H1

H1_and_H3_Bulbs.jpg And this one is a H4

as you can see there are big differences.

so pull one of yours out and match it with one of these pics and it should tell you which model bulb you have

wikid, thank you so much. cant wait now gonna do it in the morning.

i hope i dont stuff it up and break it while i pull it out.

thx so much for ur help eeiko321 and the rest.

will get bac with the results.

thank you

SLinky-A (BIG ASS SMILE)

hey guys, i know you guys said it was easy taking out the bulb, i have been working on it for 2hours now and i cant get the damn thing to pop out. Any idea how get it out or pictures because im having problems.

thank you

SLinky-A :D:)

hey guys, i know you guys said it was easy taking out the bulb, i have been working on it for 2hours now and i cant get the damn thing to pop out. Any idea how get it out or pictures because im having problems.

thank you

SLinky-A :):/

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gu...adl-t16147.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...mp;hl=r32+light

2 hours? gee...

here are 2 simple guides on this forum which may help you

hey,

yeah it took me two hours and i still didnt get it out, so i gave up and came here for some help.

thx for the links, very helpful.

ill give it a go tomorrow morning, jus got bac from work so im tired.

Ill come bac with the results on what the globes are.

thx again

SLinky-A :):)

omg i finally got my GLOBES OUT. the thing was a bitch to pull out but i got there. thx for all the help guys. weee cant wait now im going buy me SOME HID. ty eeiko for the pics it helped. now i know its H1 i can rest in peace now lol!!!

Thank you

SLinky-A :D:bunny::blush:;)

one concern with HIDs that i have is that I was told HIDs shouldn't be turned on/off repeatedly

so say when you're driving an r32/r33 at night with lights on and you flash someone, when you flash the high beam gets turned on and low beam off, then high beam off low beam on...

doesn't this affect the life of the HID kit?

omg i finally got my GLOBES OUT. the thing was a bitch to pull out but i got there. thx for all the help guys. weee cant wait now im going buy me SOME HID. ty eeiko for the pics it helped. now i know its H1 i can rest in peace now lol!!!

Thank you

SLinky-A :D:bunny::blush:;)

no probs

let us know how you go

one concern with HIDs that i have is that I was told HIDs shouldn't be turned on/off repeatedly

so say when you're driving an r32/r33 at night with lights on and you flash someone, when you flash the high beam gets turned on and low beam off, then high beam off low beam on...

doesn't this affect the life of the HID kit?

i know what you mean...

there is 2 types of HID kits... for 2 different type of cars....

the difference is how the highbeam works....One has highbeam wired with it...which is done by letting in extra current/wattage making it brighter when you pull the highbeams

the other type is done by a little mechanical pivot on the actual globe...so when you pull the highbeam it makes it point upwards... flashing people.

the first one is the more expensive one.....and the 2nd one with the mechanical pivot can have premature failure if you keep activating it......

does that make sense?

so for th

i know what you mean...

there is 2 types of HID kits... for 2 different type of cars....

the difference is how the highbeam works....One has highbeam wired with it...which is done by letting in extra current/wattage making it brighter when you pull the highbeams

the other type is done by a little mechanical pivot on the actual globe...so when you pull the highbeam it makes it point upwards... flashing people.

the first one is the more expensive one.....and the 2nd one with the mechanical pivot can have premature failure if you keep activating it......

does that make sense?

so for th

isn't that for H4 type? like when hi beam and low beam are in the same cluster... such as n15 pulsar or r32 N1 lights...

like R32 projectors and R33s have seperate light cluster for hi and low beam... when you flash high beam it turns off low beam, then turns low beam back on and turns hi beam off. so basically it turns the low beam HIDs on and off frequently when you flash a few times and i was told that frequently turning on/off is not good for the ballast...

isn't that for H4 type? like when hi beam and low beam are in the same cluster... such as n15 pulsar or r32 N1 lights...

like R32 projectors and R33s have seperate light cluster for hi and low beam... when you flash high beam it turns off low beam, then turns low beam back on and turns hi beam off. so basically it turns the low beam HIDs on and off frequently when you flash a few times and i was told that frequently turning on/off is not good for the ballast...

the cars that fit the mechanical HID bulbs... (for the cars with single globes for both high and low beam) when you pull the high beam.. the Angle of the globe where it sits in the cluster changes...pointing 45 degrees up instead of horrizontally as it usually sits.

at this angle it focuses the beam off the ground and onto the windscreen of traffic.

the mechanical part that tilts the globe is the weak if you keep activating it.

the cars that fit the mechanical HID bulbs... (for the cars with single globes for both high and low beam) when you pull the high beam.. the Angle of the globe where it sits in the cluster changes...pointing 45 degrees up instead of horrizontally as it usually sits.

at this angle it focuses the beam off the ground and onto the windscreen of traffic.

the mechanical part that tilts the globe is the weak if you keep activating it.

uh ok let me try to rephrase my question

the R32 projector/R33 skylines don't use the mechanical actuation.. its H1, plus there are seperate hi/lo beam bulbs

what i'm meant to ask is if you turn HID lights on and off repeatedly then does it shorten the life of the HID ballast/bulb?

and the reason why i asked this question is when you pull the high beam, low beam goes off in r32/r33. since the high beam and low beams have seperate bulbs, this means the low beam is getting turned on and off repeatedly

uh ok let me try to rephrase my question

the R32 projector/R33 skylines don't use the mechanical actuation.. its H1, plus there are seperate hi/lo beam bulbs

what i'm meant to ask is if you turn HID lights on and off repeatedly then does it shorten the life of the HID ballast/bulb?

and the reason why i asked this question is when you pull the high beam, low beam goes off in r32/r33. since the high beam and low beams have seperate bulbs, this means the low beam is getting turned on and off repeatedly

i see what you mean.

Skylines dont require the use of the mechanical type HID bulb because it has Highbeam bulbs separate.

But im guessing it can shorten the life of the ballast of the HID bulb due to over use if you keep activating it.

im not 100% sure... because a halogen bulb or convenstional light globes, the filament actually get busted when you turn on and off...

just like the bulbs in the house go when you keep turning the switch on and off.

but some bulbs filaments are designed to be On/Off... like indicators... LEDs are suitable for this too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...