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Help... Few Problems With My 34

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ok ill start from the beginning.

about a month ago i got a blitz supersonic bov installed,

had to be welded on with a custom made gasket as an adaptor

was not found. A FMIC was also installed and the bov was welded

onto the intercoller piping. The pod filter was relocated to the

position of the stock intercooler so it would have lots of cold air.

The AFM is inbetween the pod filter and the turbo.

Heres when all of my problem starts.

The car starts to idle very weak on turbo timer

600 - low 700 rpm idle.

Everytime i change gears (around 3000rpm) a single missfire occurs

about 70% of the time. A single pop.

I have tried to resolve the issue by plugging the vaccum line

back into the stock BOV and it seems to run fine, no missfire.

But then another problem occurs.

When i rev over 3k rpm about 4k it starts to shutter and feels like

its loosing a lot of power. I've read around and came across R&R.

i think this might be it, but im not sure.

I've taken it to a few reputable tuners here in melb and they said;

i need to relocate the AFM before the BOV on the intercooler piping,

get a nistune which would cost me quite abit of $$.

I havnt got the funds at the moment and would like for a temporary

fix if possible untill i get hold of some funds.

So if anyone could shed some light on what i should be doing will be great.

From what i've read, im going to get the AFM cleaned, some new

platnium spark plugs gapped at 0.8, tape up the coilpacks

and clean the o2 sensor tomorrow.

As reguards to power. when i first got the car it came with a kakimoto cat back,

pod filter (just sitting in engine bay unboxed) and hks hipermax coilovers.

Power reading was 141.1rwkw.

I feel as if the car is losing power. It does not run like how i bought it.

Thanks in advanced

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update; i've changed the spark plugs today and gapped them at 0.8

the R&R problem seems to have gone but the other 2 problems are still

there !!.

can anybody help me i'm outta ideas

G`day androoh,Do you get misfire with AIRCON switched ON ??? ,let car Idle & see whet happen`s,if you have it just dip,then may be look at COIL PACK`S,cheap quick fix is to COAT with CRC URETHANE SEAL COAT,post-36964-1240482940_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1240483379_thumb.jpg,clean them well ,there is few post`s about this,good luck,cheer`s chuckie

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Is it one like in the pic below,


If so you will need to get the recirculating fitting and then plumb back in the return hose from the BOV to between the turbo and air flow meter (MAF) on the intake pipe where the stock pipe has the return.

Edited by TriniGT
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If you have the factory BOV that would more than suffice but then you will have to get the factory piping which I am thinking you do not want to do at this point. So just spend a little extra and get the fitting to recirculate the BOV and you should be good.

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They always tend to idle a bit lower wen running on the turbo timer, I don't think thats a major issue but 600 rpm does sound a bit too low :) Are you sure it's that low???????

Bout the BOV if it's not a plum back you'll always get that trust me. Bet you any money put the factory 1 back on and problem solved. But neway you just gota do wat the guys said sounds like they know they've used that BOV b4 but sorry I've never seen it.

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Standard BOV. This is a well documented problem. Your computer is not able to think. It is preprogramed to work with the equipment it came with. Every time you back off the computer sees a lean out condition and throws in a bunch of fuel, this is the pop you are getting. I could be wrong as every car is different but one thing we all know is the standard R33-R34 will play up without the BOV plumbed back.

Edited by skylinecouple
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MAF-metered engines must have a CLOSED induction system in order to run correctly. This means not a single air-leak after the AFM - including; BOV's, oil-filler points, dipsticks, vacuum lines, breathers etc.

As previously stated, you need to recirculate your current BOV (ensuring the return is fed in after the AFM), or return the car to standard.

There have been reports of the factory BOV's leaking, however this is not all that common at moderate boost levels.

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This means not a single air-leak after the AFM - including; BOV's, oil-filler points, dipsticks, vacuum lines, breathers etc.

Both my breathers are vented to atmo and i have no problems whatsoever.

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By having both the PCV & breather vented, you effectively remove the engine from the intake circuit.

(Hence no issues)

Venting the PCV really does defeat the purpose of having it though...

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+1 TriniGT. I have a 34 gtt and installed a super sequential (atmo vented) on it and it started popping when shifting gears. Changed the bov back to stock setup (plumbed into the intake) and it stopped.

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